There must be a better way

[SVanderkolff]

I just finished putting together a knife and figured there has to be a better way to do this.
My Father always taught me that it is never dumb too ask questions....the first time. So here I go.
I have a 440C mirror polished full tang blade with file work all along the top spine tip to back
Matt Walker damascus bolsters, dovetailed, attached by screws
mammoth ivory slabs, to be pinned by gold pins.
Here is what I did.
I finished the blade completely, all the shiney parts are shiney including the spine all the way around.
I fitted the bolsters, finished and etched them.
Fitted the ivory to 1200 grit then buff including drilling the pin holes.
Took the whole thinng apart, ensured that all the parts were clean.
Fitted the bolsters back on.
Used vaseline on the face top and front of the bolsters. Also used vaseline in all the file work and around the complete spine.
Used 2 ton devcon epoxy and attached the slbs back on and put the pin mayerial, gold, through the pin holes.
When it was all complete I noticed I have a hair line gap between the slabs and the bolsters.
I also realise I will need to bring the pins flush to the the slabs and refinish the area around the pins. Then pick out all the epoxy from the filework hopefully without damaging either the ivory or the finish on the spine.

Is there an easier way to do this?
I hate to go to all this trouble then end up without a clean fit from bolster to slab. But once I take it apart the chances of getting a perfect fit once more are pretty slim, aren't they?
And attempting to clean up the epoxy without damaging the finished parts doesn't seem very easy either.
When I look at theextremely complex knives that some people put together I am at a loss to figure out how they do it with out destroying it getting the epoxy off.

Thanks for the help.
Steve

[george tichbour]

I would be tempted to take a thin saw blade and cut a slot between the slab and the bolster then insert a sliver of gold or anodized titanium to fill the slot and set off both the bolster and the slab. Epoxy the sliver of metal in place.

[Jim Charles]

What a simple and great way to do it. Thanks.

[Ice Tigre]

Well, I stopped useing epoxy alltogether, so there is absolutely nothing between the slabs and tang/bosters but air to be pushed out. If my pins don't press fit and hold the slabs in place, I use a small dot of super glue. No glue= no glue line, or anything to create a gap.

I started doing this after I read here that some full time, pro makers didn't use epoxy, for the same reason.

Gary

[santino]

i thought one of the reasons for using epoxy was to seal the tang so you don't get any moisture between the handle and the tang