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#1
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Pyroceram platen liners.
Hello everyone; I've been getting a few inquiries wondering if I still carry the liners, so thought I'd let it be known here. Yes, and still keep most all the most common sizes in stock for immediate shipment. Thanks.
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#2
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Hello, Steve. I need a piece 2" wide x 6 1/4" or thereabouts for my old Burr King.
It can't be very thick to work on this machine. Please tell me the thickness, availability, price, and how to oder from you. Thanks. My email address is drobinson@rgv.rr.com |
#3
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Don, the thickness that Steve provides works on my Burr King, although I was concerned about it at first. It does push the belt proud of the plane of travel a bit, but spraying the back of the belt with silicon spray seems to have prevented any problems. I also rounded the leading and trailing edges of the glass to minimize belt abrasion.
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#4
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ceramic platen
Don, like Don says. I use one on my Burr King and did the same thing re: the leadig and trailing ends.
Roland |
#5
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mail
Hi Don R; you've got mail. Yes guys, the glass is 1/4in. thick, but I prefer running the belt proud of the idlers. Although I have plenty of adjustment to run flush, it seems to make things a bit easier..for me anyway.
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#6
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Hey folks! I have refrained from using it since I have a Hard Core with the flat platen attachment. There is virtually no clearance and it will definitely have to run "proud" of the the guide and drive wheels.
I have been toying with the idea of just making another platen out of some angle and afixing the glass to it. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Craig |
#7
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what are the pros and cons of this stuff this is the first i have herd of it ?
signed still using a metal platen in MI, __________________ sharp and pointy sharp and pointy giving you your sharp and pointy fix since 1995 |
#8
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Craig,
Don is probably as good as an endorsement as you need but I'll add to it. My pyroceram runs proud also and I can adjust it flat of the idlers on my KMG. I did that to give me some finger clearance from the top roller when I want to hold the blank vertical for flattening. The glass can be ground easily to give it round edges. I was worried about premature wear on the belt seam but it's never been a problem. I also noticed that running proud reduces the belt curl a bit. Dragon, the glass seems to have a lot less drag than a metal platen and for me, helped me get a straighter flat grind line. It's easier on the motor and gives a more consistant belt speed. It also doesn't wear nearly as fast as a metal platen. I'd never go back to metal given a choice. The disadvantage is static electricity is generated and depending on the humidity can be a bit sharp. On occasion when it's strong, I'll rest a finger - some how - on the metal platen when grinding to short it out and keep the big blue sparks from jumping and causing a twitch. I haven't paid enough attention to see if it is a particular belt type or what. I just know some days it's more pronounced than others. I've read where some made a grounding strap to themselves. This is dangerous in case of a short. I have on occasion when doing a long flat grinding session, taken a wire and ran it from back of the platen to the grinder to help ground out the static. I have even played with it to see how long of a spark I could generate. |
#9
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Pyroceram
Dragon; some of the main benifits are having a super flat surface that seems to vitually never wear out. I've even heard some say that heat reduction is great enough to save on idler bearings also.
The static issue; personally I can tell no difference glass or not, but my grinder is abou 3ft. from a wood furnace so getting zapped is fairly common either way. Some of the ways I've found to keep this to a minimum are as some mentioned, a ground strap to a bracelet. My shop has a concrete floor, so I can also add a bit of humidity to the air by spraying the floor occasionally, this also helps considerably. Another thing I would do is occasionally bump the frame of the platen with the heel of my hand to keep those eraser sized balls of fire from jumping to a fingertip at the most inopportune times. |
#10
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Steve, I'm going to hold off a while before I get the pyroceram from you. I may get a new grinder. Anyways, new or old, I'm going to use it on my platen. The one I have is completely worn out. It has a large groove worn in it.
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#11
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Tracy, the gound straps used in industry are designed to eliminate the possibilty of injury from a short circuit. the static elimination staps at Radio Shack are the same as used in industry.
Jerry |
#12
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Jerry, I guess I'm not sure what type of strap you are talking about -- but I'd like to know.
The ground straps I've used in the past were only to circut boards or computer chasis with no power plugged in to keep static from zapping any chips. I've never seen any other kind. Maybe I should have said static straps and grounding straps are another animal? |
#13
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Tracy,
Those straps would work as well. They have a 1M?? resistor to protect the wearer from being directly tied to ground. Craig |
#14
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Tracy, What Craig said, The ones that I have used come with an alligator clip. Just attach it to any convient piece of metal on your grinder frame (assumming the grinder has an electrical ground, If it doesn't you would be advised to hook one up). anyway the shock comes from static electricty (High voltage low current) and the strap keeps you at ground potential thru the 1 meg resistor, and the 1 meg resistor is low enough for the high voltage to pass to ground without shocking you and high enough to limit the current from a low voltage ( 120/240 vac) short to a non leathal value. If they weren't safe you can bet OSHA wouldn't allow them in the work place.
Jerry Last edited by Jerry Shorter; 10-08-2003 at 10:41 AM. |
#15
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One thing about those straps, I would tie it to my ankle instead of my wrist to keep it out of the way. Remember, skin contact, not just to your sock!
Craig |
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