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  #1  
Old 07-07-2008, 01:55 PM
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Question Making a blade look aged????

I am making a SOG MACV Recon. I want to make the knife look vintage. Kinda like heavely used and stored for 40 years. Also need to age the brass guard and stacked leather handle.
Thanks in advance for your help.

No use the heck out of it and store it in a closet for 40 years is not an option.


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Last edited by ranger1; 07-07-2008 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 07-07-2008, 02:33 PM
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Andy,

You could check out this website for patina recipes for brass:

http://www.sciencecompany.com/patina...naformulas.htm

Nathan
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Old 07-07-2008, 03:18 PM
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Thanks Nathan, I'm looking for as many options as possible.


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Old 07-07-2008, 03:25 PM
DC KNIVES DC KNIVES is offline
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Seek out Chuck Burrows aka Wild Rose. He knows more about aging blades than anyone I know.Dave
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Old 07-07-2008, 04:15 PM
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Iwas hopeing Chuck would jump in here.


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Old 07-07-2008, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DC KNIVES
Seek out Chuck Burrows aka Wild Rose. He knows more about aging blades than anyone I know.Dave
Yep, Chuck is the man. He gave me info on doing this a few years ago. It goes like this:
(this process is for carbon steel - not stainless)

Wipe down with Birchwood Casey Super Blue (not Perma Blue). Rub with steel wool while still wet and dunk in straight Clorox bleach. I used a Pyrex casserole dish because it's easy to clean (don't tell my wife). It will start growing rust fast! The longer you leave it the more pitted and gnarled it will be when done. Pull it out of the clorox and in Chuck's words it'll look like a rusted nightmare. Dunk in boiling water for a minute and then use steel wool or scotchbright pad to get the fuzzy rust off leaving a dark pitted patina.

Here's a knife I made (third knife, first fixed blade) for my brother. He gave me the antler and said "make something that looks old". I used Chuck's technique and it did the trick. I probably should have left it in the clorox longer, but I thought it came out ok for a first-try. It was bright and shiny O1 and 10 minutes later it looked like this. In the spirit of full-disclosure I have to point out this is a stock-removal knife. I have yet to try forging anything.

-Ben

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Old 07-07-2008, 07:18 PM
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Thanks Ben, I've been wanting to try some of this style too.


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Old 07-07-2008, 08:29 PM
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Perfect. I just need to not soak it very long. I only want light pitting in sparce areas.
Thanks guys. This should get me there.


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Old 07-08-2008, 10:05 AM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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Howdy Andy - I'm off to town this morning and will try and remember to come back here later and offer some advice on the other aging - they've covered the Blue/Bleach method pretty good.


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Old 07-08-2008, 04:34 PM
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Ahhhhh if you wait long enough the masters will appear.
Look forward to hearing from you Chuck.


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Old 07-08-2008, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Burrows
I'm off to town this morning and will try and remember to come back here later and offer some advice on the other aging...
Oooooo... I'm looking forward to this as well!
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:53 AM
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Ben, I was just rereading your post. That is your 3rd knife. Man that is great. Good job.


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Old 07-09-2008, 09:18 PM
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Gene Chapman Gene Chapman is offline
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Some where long time ago on a forum damp wood ashes was mentioned or pitting/aging blades.

We have a wood stove and have tried it with good results. Using the ashes the next day didn't work the one time I tried it.


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Old 07-10-2008, 07:01 AM
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I have experimented with wet/damp flux on a hot blade. Not quite the result I was looking for . I haven't tried ash.


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Old 09-05-2008, 10:51 AM
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I thought I'd revive this thread so that maybe Chuck can jump in and give us some more of his sage advice, and to ask a question.

Ben detailed the steps for the blue/beach method in one of the earlier posts, and mentioned a Clorox soak lasting about 10 minutes for O-1. I'm thinking of trying this method out for a full tang Nessmuk I'm working on. Obviously I don't want too many pits to affect the appearance of the tang/handle fit, so how long is too long to soak in the Clorox? I'm working with 1095, and I suppose I'll need to test on some scrap pieces first--is there a difference in this reaction whether the steel is hardened or not (i.e. will I have to harden and temper some scrap pieces to get a good idea of what works)?

Thanks!
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