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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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Old 07-18-2017, 08:18 AM
Toni Toni is offline
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Finland
Posts: 28
Diamond stone sharpening.

So, I some time ago got myself a double sided diamond stone, been trying sharpening with it a bit, it's going okay, though maybe I need a bit more patience.

Anyways, What's the proper technique to use?

Some tell you to do a slicing motion on top of the stone, which has done alright for me.
Some tell you to do a back 'n forth motion, which has given me the best edges so far.
And some tell you to do a circling motion, which I have found quite bothersome as the hilts of some knives seem to get in the way.
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Old 07-18-2017, 08:56 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: ny
Posts: 1,442
You are putting a secondary bevel on the blade before sharpening right? if you don't do that it will take forever. I use 2 process most often one is put the secondary bevel on and do the rest with a edge pro......Other wise I will use my grinder to put on a secondary bevel (just as before.....) I do this right behind the idle wheel of my grinder so the edge becomes slightly convex but I keep it as close to the wheel as possible to keep that to a minimum. Then I have a diamond stone 300 on one side 1000 on the other very rarely do I use the 300 If you use a dulled 220 or 400 grit belt you can go right to the 1000. Now the diamond stone makes it a little flatter if you used the grinder (on the slack right behind the wheel) I start with the blade aaway from me tip it up to the edge now lets say you have the knife on the side where the handle is in your right hand tip to the left edge away and spine toward. OH first take a sharpie marker and use it to just color the secondary bevel right at the edge. Then tip the knife up so the secondary bevel is in contact with the stone as you push the knife away from you at the same time pull it to the right so the tip also makes it across the stone. Now remember that sharpie maker IF you had the knife on the right angle the stone will scratch away you can use that to tell if your holding it to high or low....very good little trick......After I do both sides I have a piece of leather that is glued to a piece of leather and I put green chrome on the leather and run the knife across that too. That will get rid of the burr completely and will make it razor sharp....if you keep doing passes the green chrome will mirror polish the edge of the is hard for me to put that exact motion in words maybe some one will explain better than me
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Old 07-18-2017, 11:05 AM
samuraistuart samuraistuart is offline
Steel Addict
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 163
Whether you do a slicing motion, like from heel to tip on one side, flip, repeat (the method I prefer to use because I've been doing it that way since Moses wore short pants), or you do a scrubbing motion (which is best when you need to remove a lot of material), or a circular motion (which I don't really care for, but it works)....all you are doing is removing material, hopefully evenly on both sides, so that a crisp apex (the edge of the edge) is formed. Scrubbing motions tend to form larger burrs, which need to be removed. The trick is to keep an eye on the light reflecting from the apex itself, looking straight at it. Once that "flat" gets smaller and smaller and smaller to where you can hardly see light reflecting, then whatever technique you were using, switch over to the 1st one you mentioned...slicing motion, edge leading, from heel to tip, once on one side, flip to the other side and then repeat. This will keep the burr formation to a minimum. Use your fingernail as a gauge to see if you apexed or not. If you did, the apex will bite into your thumbnail instantly. Check like this from tip down to heel. And on both sides. If a lot of material needs to be removed (thinning), then a scrubbing motion will work faster to get that steel removed. Just keep in mind that if you continue a scrubbing motion when are are at the apex, a larger burr will form that will need to be removed. Diamond plates are best used with light pressure. More pressure will strip the diamonds out of the nickel substrate. For actual apexing, making a very sharp edge of the edge, diamond plates work very well. For lots of material removal, a soft bonded silicon carbide stone with scrubbing motions works better, IMHO, as you can use more pressure, and not worry about stripping the stone. Actually the opposite is true for silicone carbide stones like Crystolon. You WANT to use decent pressure to release spent grit and bring up fresh grit particles.
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Old 07-18-2017, 11:45 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: ny
Posts: 1,442
Yeh probilly not the best idea but I don't use my finger nail I use my finger...PERPENDICULAR TO THE BLADE NOT DOWN THE EDGE!!!!!!......I guess if you talk about what kinds of stones and that stuff it depends on the blade and the steel. IF you make a very hard blade from s35vn trying to sharpen it on anything less than a diamond stone will prove very time consuming
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Old 07-18-2017, 11:58 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Now live in Las Cruces NM.
Posts: 1,276
I sharpen by hand and the slice motion is what I use and I use a diamond stone for most everything, it is a medium grit that has worn to a medium fine grit. I use the scrub motion for removing material fast and then finish with the slicing motion to remove any burr from running the blade backwards on the stone while doing the scrubbing motion. I will finish with a few swipes across a hard arkansas stone if I want razor sharp, but mostly I use a working edge or butcher's edge for most applications.

Now it says Guru and it used to say Master. I think I like Master better, though skilled would be the best description
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