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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 11-12-2016, 01:26 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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iron wood

OK so I got another question so as far as ironwood its not stabilized right? I think. so I am wondering how you guys would finish it oil, wax? just curious I have this hidden tang almost done using a iron wood block. and I have never use ironwood very rarely have I used a non stabilized wood. I did a search and this seems like a subject that every one has there own process as far as using the belt grinder compared to hand sanding toward the end, also different oils wax, using the buffer or not this handle has a brass guard and a copper and brass spacer so I will use the buffer to shine that up but I figured I during search everything I read was different so I figured I would ask you guys since I trust all of you much more than a nameless page of sugestions
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Old 11-12-2016, 01:29 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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oh forgot I also read about coating the hole thing with C.A. glue then go back to grinder or buffer>>>
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Old 11-12-2016, 01:43 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Ironwood comes in a variety of flavors, some are oily and some are pretty dry. That can make a big difference when deciding how to finish it. If the wood is dry I send it in to have it stabilized (yes, it works). If it's oily I sand and buff and finish with Ren Wax. Ironwood is another one of those woods that clog belts easily and the dust is toxic like cocobolo though perhaps less so to most people.

As for the CA, lots of people do that but I think it's a bad idea. That technique was originally developed for collector's knives and that's where it works best. It doesn't seem to hold up well to real use. Ironwood really doesn't need much of a finish to protect it because its naturally resistant to most things and its attractive enough already. So, maybe something based on Tung oil if you feel the need for an applied finish, otherwise wax seems to do just fine ...


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Old 11-12-2016, 02:48 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Ok yeh its deffitly very good looking as it is all I gota do is buff and then ill use the ren wax and see how it looks...I just didn't know if it needed a oil for protection or not as I said 99% of the wood I have used is stabilized so iron wood is new ill just use the renisance wax...thanks ray
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:27 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I have desert ironwood and it doesn't need anything, but sand fine then buff and wax. Unfortunately I don't have enough for as many filet knives I plan to make as I try to always put ironwood on my saltwater knives. Desert ironwood is considered the hardest of woods and if you polish it you can see silicate crystals in it with a magnifying glass. It totally wears out saw blades.
I am trying to get my uncle in AZ to send me some small logs, but it will cost me a couple of band saw blades to cut it. There are different types, but I have only ever used the desert variety as I was gifted a large log of it years ago and ruined the band saw blade for cutting metal at work cutting it into blocks and slabs. My boss was somewhat perturbed and I had to resharpen the blade by hand on my own time using a dremel and stone.lol If you ever are able to get some of the desert ironwood at a decent price, grab it Dave.
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Old 11-15-2016, 02:40 PM
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Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
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I've used Ren Wax, Turtle Wax, and Tung Oil.
My current favorite is hand sand as fine as desired (usually down to 600 or maybe even 1000). Then I apply two coats of Danish Oil (couple hours apart) and wipe it clean the next day. Finish with Old Master's Paste Wax over the entire knife, blade and all.

Mine is always the darker oily stuff.


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back, belt, block, brass, buffer, collector, fixed blade, glue, grinder, guard, hand, handle, hidden, hidden tang, how to, iron, ironwood, knife, knives, sanding, spacer, tang, wax, wood, wood block


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