Two drop points with canvas micarta.

[metal99]

Finished these guys up recently. This is part of a three knife order. I still have to finish the third one.

1084, black canvas micarta and hollow pins just nice simple hunters.

[ricky_arthur]

Very nice. Is the bevel on the top of the blade done with a grinder or a file? and is it done after the main grind is finished?

[metal99]

Thanks Ricky, I grind the main bevel on my belt sander then after everything is cleaned up with files I do the top false edge with a file. I draw file it in and it goes fairly quick.

[rockhound]

Nice design... fit & finish looks clean!
Good work!!

[metal99]

Thanks man, I really like the ones in your profile picture.

[rockhound]

Thanks! I just changed to that avatar about 5 minutes ago.
Those are still pre HT... working on them now, drop points also.

[metal99]

I figured that you changed it recently lol. What are you planning on using for handle material?

[rockhound]

I have two sets of scales waiting
One will get stabilized CA Buckeye Burl...
the other gets Desert Ironwood.
Also making bolsters for these two.

[metal99]

Ironwood is one of my favorites

[metal99]

Here are the four that I have recently finished. The three with micarta handles are for one order.

[samuraistuart]

I'm really liking those knives! I've just recently finished my first, much like yours only full flat grind, and I gave it to my dad for Christmas. I must say, I was impressed how well it came out, and so was the family. But compared to the work I see online by others, I've got a long way to go. There are some VERY clean looking first and second knives out there. I love this forum, and I have become addicted to knifemaking. The first knife was a 4" drop point hunter, full flat grind, 1084, walnut handle. Being it was my first knife, I made the mistake of buying .25" stock....which was too thick, in my opinion. The blade came out fine, razor sharp. Towards the "drop" and the tip, where the taper gets thin (and where most slicing is done), it's nice and thin. Towards the ricasso, it's too thick for slicing (but still shaving sharp), but probably great for chopping. So the knife accidently became a hybrid type of knife. Hybrid knife? Whatever. So, knife number two, same basic knife design, I went with .110" thick 1080+. Full flat grind. Maybe too thin for any heavy use, but fine for slicing, skinning. So I said all of that to ask.....what thickness are these knives featured in your post? And, if anyone out there would like to help......what has your experience shown you to be the "best" thickness for a knife that has a 4"-5" blade, full flat grind (or almost full), that will be used for gutting and skinning deer, no heavy use, no wood batoning, etc....just mainly concerned with slicing ability, not chopping? Thanks in advance for your replies! I promise to take photos of my current project (knife #2) and post them for you to make fun of and throw darts at!!!

[rockhound]

m99,
Solid 4 stars there!!!

[metal99]

Thanks for the compliment samuraistuart. I can't wait to see your second knife its an addicting hobby.

As far as steel thickness for a smaller knife meant for fine cutting I would say 1/8" or 3/32" would be thin enough for sure. As long as the blade is tall enough like a drop point. If you want to make something with a narrower blade like the "frost" hunting knives then I would gonna thicker then 3/32" with a distal taper. That's just my 2 cents. The knives in this thread are 1/8" 1084 but I ground them a little thinner and gave them a tiny bit of distal taper.

[metal99]

Originally Posted by rockhound

m99,
Solid 4 stars there!!!

Thanks man

[metal99]

I'm hijacking my own thread because I figured there was no point in starting another one for an almost identicle knife.

I just finished glueing this one up.