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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 12-27-2015, 05:59 PM
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ricky_arthur ricky_arthur is offline
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An AEB-L test knife.

Watched Rays great knives video again and decided to do something similar. But I didn't have stock wide enough To get the right look on the blade style and I wanted to do another of this type of handle to refine the process. I tried 2 different pieces of wood for the handle and one had a large void when I started cutting. The second split when I was drilling for the tang. So I grabbed this piece of bocote that was pretty ho-hum. But it actually finished up very nice. Anyway. Here is a new chefs knife style for me in AEB-London



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  #2  
Old 12-27-2015, 08:33 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Shoot I think that's a nice pretty piece of wood. Good looking knife too, love the satin blade finish. I need to make me a chef knife some day.
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  #3  
Old 12-27-2015, 08:33 PM
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Very nice work looks pretty good


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Old 12-27-2015, 08:51 PM
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Wow I really like that! That's making me want to try some kitchen knives.


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  #5  
Old 12-28-2015, 12:04 AM
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That's a great looking knife. I love AEB-L. Are you testing the handle or the steel? What is your heat treat method?

Dan
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  #6  
Old 12-28-2015, 06:38 AM
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Nothing wrong with bacote. Not always flashy but very fine handle material. I have one long time customer that won't buy anything that's not bacote. He even had his shotgun restocked in bacote and all his duck calls are same.
Very nice looking knife. Ever done a 7 knife set with stand? Have done a few for a jeweler friend, if he sees that one he's going to be wanting one in bacote as well.


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  #7  
Old 12-28-2015, 06:41 AM
PoolQs PoolQs is offline
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Another fine product Ricky !!!
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:03 AM
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That is an excellent bit of work. I didn't notice it last night when we were talking but your maker's mark is on the post side of the knife. Nothing wrong with that and a few guys do that consistently but it is a little unusual...


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  #9  
Old 12-28-2015, 09:15 AM
NCBoy NCBoy is offline
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Great knife. Can I ask what thinkness the spine of the knife is? Wonderful work.
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  #10  
Old 12-28-2015, 12:39 PM
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NCBoy, I used .130 stock. Finished it is .120 at the spine.

Dan Com, I prequench at 1725'f after soaking for 20 minutes, plate quench. I also use 321 foil to wrap blades in.

Second quench 1965. Place blade in pre heated oven and stabilize temp, soak for 10 minutes and plate quench.

Sub zero quench right after plate quench, continuous cool down. It is critical to get right to cryo out of plate quench. A snap temper is a bad idea if going for minimal RA.

2 tempers first at 350 second at 375. I did a ton of research on heat treating this steel. I should see if Ray is willing to test some for me. Out of cryo it should be 63-64RC
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  #11  
Old 12-28-2015, 01:12 PM
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If you want to HT a couple square inches and send it to me I can get the Rc for you. If it really is 63-64 I don't wonder that you weren't happy trying to grind it post HT ....


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Old 01-10-2016, 11:18 AM
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Great looking knife.
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2016, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricky_arthur View Post
Dan Com, I prequench at 1725'f after soaking for 20 minutes, plate quench. I also use 321 foil to wrap blades in.
Good stuff Ricky. Thanks for posting details. Any performance notes?

I used to use foil and copper plate quench. After a chat with old-timer Ed Storch, I am now using a product called Condursal Z1100 (coating) and oil quenching. It makes a noticeable difference in hardness. At minimum the number of spent ceramic belts I have hanging on the wall has increased in recent weeks.

;-)

Dan
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Old 01-11-2016, 03:56 PM
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Most steels that react well to air quench can be plate quenched and get about the same results. But, many of them do considerably better with an oil quench. On steels that like oil the oil should beat plates every time.......


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Old 01-11-2016, 04:11 PM
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I guess one of the obstacles was getting the blade out of the foil envelope before oil quenching. It seemed counter-intuitive to quench in oil if the blade was still in the envelope, so I never tried. The Z1100 coating means out of the furnace and into the oil in one second, no fiddling.

Another issue that came up to mind, if you have ground your primary bevels, then plate quench, aren't you cooling the flats and spine faster than the edge? The edge will not be touching the plate. To me that seems like a reverse differential thing. :-)

I am doing my bevels post heat-treat now. Keeping the belt makers in business.
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