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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #31  
Old 08-05-2016, 11:47 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Location: putnam county NY ....about 45 mins north of new york city
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ya know what I also wanted to get peoples opinion on is for example I have one knife that I did a scotch bright belt finish on is got kinda a scandi grind on so in the process of using the scotch bright on the bevels it created a lil bit of scratches on the flat (not all the way just where the 2 meet) is not that bad yeh I could go back and hand sand it out but its already got a handle on it and I hate hand sanding with a handle on so that's just one example but say there is a lil bit of a cosmetic "mistake" like that would you sell that knife for less? would you point that out? or not sell it at all unless you went back to fix it?
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  #32  
Old 08-05-2016, 03:43 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Smile Hand sanding technique



Start at the edge of the bolster or handle and lightly come down on it with the grit you want the finish to be while moving, like 600 and sand away from the handle, or if you can sand towards the handle and raise the sanding block up as you are moving it is another way. Whatever you do don't stop your block ON the metal sand off the end or raise the block up while moving. It takes practice, I've been doing it for a long time.

I sometimes fix minor mistakes like that by jeweling one of the flat areas (see pic) or I use diamond compound on leather glued to a block, much faster, but diamond compounds can get expensive, but the 500 grit looks like 1000 grit and it doesn't take much if you have 50% concentration like I do. I use diamond compound typically just to put a shine on the knife, but I can get a mirror finish rather quickly with it too.

Reason I have as much compound as I have was the company I ordered from on Amazon sent me the wrong stuff. I ordered 500, 1200, and 3000 grits all 25-50% concentration. I was sent 400 @ 10% 1500 @ 25% and my 500 grit, it took them a month to get the right stuff to me and I still didn't get exactly what I ordered.. Now I just buy it from Boride engineered abrasives where I buy my cratex. Never a problem with them and they have great prices on cratex.

Last edited by jimmontg; 08-05-2016 at 03:53 PM.
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  #33  
Old 08-05-2016, 04:09 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Sorry, didn't mean for the picture to be so big. You can see the handle of a knife I practice engraving my logo on lol.
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  #34  
Old 08-05-2016, 04:32 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok yeh I have tried it before pretty much what your saying. I don't have aproblem stopping on the blade but I still get lil "stop or swirl " marks at the end where I start (up agenst the handle) that's why I like doing it without the handle on so I can start in a place where the handle will cover up..........on that knife all the lil circles is that what you do with the creytex "jewling" never tried that don't even know what it really is
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  #35  
Old 08-05-2016, 08:00 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Start off the blade and before you get to the handle gently raise the block up with a twist of your hand at the same time. That's how I start near the handle is my block is moving when I come in contact with the blade. Starting off the handle and raising it up would be the best way to do it. Wished I could show you, it's easier said than done. I hold the knife in one hand and the sanding block is on the table I actually raise the knife, but it works both ways as I've done both ways when I had a big knife.

Cratex is a rubberized abrasive. It comes in different shapes and grits. The round cratex can be chucked up into a drill press. I have a small Proxxon precision cross slide table and that is what I used to do that knife. The table is for a Proxxon mini mill, but is the perfect size for a drill press.

A word to the wise, do not try any kind of heavy milling on a drill press or you'll throw the spindle and possibly the bearings out. A drill press isn't made for much side pressure and even pushing too hard on a drum sander can throw them off. I have a 10" drill press and when I make slots for guards I drill the brass out and then come back with the appropriate sized end mill and clean it up.
Don't EVER try to drill a hole with an end mill, it's designed to cut sideways and will wobble all over and bend the spindle on your drill press. I watched a video on YouTube with some guy who couldn't figure out why it wouldn't drill a hole.
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  #36  
Old 08-06-2016, 10:06 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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allright I will deffinitly have to get and play around with the cretex stuff and see what can be done....what do you mean I think it was you (could be wrong) by "jewling a edge" polishing it ?
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  #37  
Old 08-06-2016, 11:02 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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The little knife in the picture has the edge jeweled.

It is more than just decorative. When I jewel the edge it gives the edge a bit of a ripple or wave. So when done right will actually impart a slight serrated effect and will cut better. If you look at that knife you see two rows of jeweling and if you look at the "My Wavy Knives" album I do not run the jeweling long ways like Warther Knives does, but up and down. The little blued knife I made from a file I moved the cratex into position halfway off the back edge of the knife and came down with the Cratex onto the knife with about 10 lbs. of pressure and moved the table from the back to the front of the blade, thus creating the hard wave and wavy edge as well. That little knife cuts discernibly better compared to one I didn't "wave" the edge on. There is a scientific name for it, but I forget what it is. I do it to most kitchen knives.

Cratex is the trademark name and they have a web site, BUT their shipping costs are outrageous and on Amazon too. Boride Abrasives is where I buy mine.
https://www.borideabrasives.com/Publ...e/Default.aspx
Look under Cratex sticks, get 3/8 ($7.37 per round and about $6.80 shipping for several) or larger as the smaller stuff bends a bit if you don't have a proper holder like I do. I mostly use fine and coarse is really coarse by the way. To do that file paring knife I used 1/2" which is as big as my press takes. Ten lbs of pressure is about all you want to put on your drill's spindle.

Another tip on selling a knife, I ask the customer if they have a sharpener, a lot of people do not know how to sharpen a knife. I included a Laskey's knife sharpener and a drawer knife block as they didn't have a proper knife block and didn't want one on their counter, but were fine with the one that fit in the drawer. If I had not of included that I would have only charged $300, but charged $400 instead. Those additions costs me about twenty five bux, but the block raised the shipping by $9 so all in all about $35 out and $100 back in.
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  #38  
Old 08-06-2016, 11:30 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok good idea with adding the sharpener....how long do these cretex sticks last? like I said I have never used them or even know anything about them I thought when you said jewl the edge it was different than the lines or circles on the knife (again sorry don't know the proper lingo) I use a edge pro sharpener to do my knives (well some of them at least all knives being sold if its just a quick "shop knife" or for me to carry once in a while I might choose a quicker method) but that system comes with stones and also "polishing tapes" they ar basicly a sticker that sticks to a metal blank and you use it after sharpening and it mirror polishes the edge that is what I thought you ment by jewling the edge I didn't realise it added a lil serration action to it. by the way the edge pro is my favorite sharpening methods I have found but if I want it quick and its just for me I will use a quicker effort....I found that system after dropping about $1000+ worth of shapton glass/ceramic stones and japaneese water stones down a flight of concrete stairs ( I bet you can guess what happened) I learned to sharpen WAY before making I can remember my uncle showing me when I was just a lil kid and with collecting knives that skill grew but I am always looking for new ways. I just ordered a kit its 2 wheels that go on a bench grinder one is covered in carbide the other is cardboard that you put rouge on ever use one of these? how do you sharpen yours? ya know what that sounds like a good thread I am going to start that I think
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  #39  
Old 08-06-2016, 01:18 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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One cratex stick lasts a long time if you are careful not to move into the edge, but over it. Also do not put too much pressure on it, it will bend and maybe break if you do. Watch how hot the knife gets as well, not usually a problem though if you're light handed and don't use at real high speed. About 800 rpms is fine.

I cut my 6" sticks in half and I've used up about half of one in about twenty knives. The little 1/4" stick I used I had to use a holder and be very light with it that is what I used on the knife up in the pic. Those "pins are actually 1/8 loveless bolts and the spacer in the middle and end piece have a mosaic pin through them as the tang ends only about 1/8" into the end piece, thus the extra pin.

Last edited by jimmontg; 08-06-2016 at 01:33 PM.
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