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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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Old 07-20-2016, 04:20 PM
Andrew Garrett's Avatar
Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Nampa, Idaho
Posts: 3,582
My handle procedures have evolved over the years.

These days, my handles are fully shaped before epoxy. Only the edges (which are very close) and the finer grits remain. I generally have them through 120 toward the back and all the way through polishing at the front due to my signature handle design.

Blue tape the blade
Pin and epoxy together (wipe away globs and smears with a Q-tip damp with alcohol-repeat)
Clamp and allow to cure
After fully curing, trim pins as indicated and peen
Carefully grind even with the finished dimensions of the handle (already established)
Get into you finer grits and desired finish (hand sand, polish, etc.)

That's how I do it.

Andy Garrett
Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association

"Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions."
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Old 07-21-2016, 05:43 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Now live in Las Cruces NM.
Posts: 1,257
Dtec try wood dowels.

You can buy 1/8" birch or some light colored wood dowels at just about any Ace Hardware and dye it the color you want with a marker pen. To spread it out instead of peening you would take a very small pin about 3/16" long and pound it into the dowel like you would an axe head wedge. I have number drill bits to 80 .013 so I can drill a pilot hole. I'm sure you don't have that but try a 1/16 pin and drill bit and just start the hole with the drill and pound the pin in holding it with needle nose pliers to keep it from bending. I've done it with wood inlays on an axe handle and it works great. Customer loved the contrast of pin and base material.

Last edited by jimmontg; 07-21-2016 at 05:58 PM.
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