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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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1095 Heat treat question
I made a file guide very similar to this
http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/fg100.htm from 1095. Not more than 2 1/2 inches wide. Question=Is it possible to heat treat with a torch, since it is rather small, and I don't have parks #50 or a way to control temperature except by sight. goal= Just want to make it harder than it is right now. TIA and sorry if dumb question James |
#2
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Yes, it's possible. But, 1095 heat treated this way could turn out to be a bit brittle so if you could find some 1084 or most anything other than 1095 you might be better off. For file guides you could try quenching the 1095 in water and then doing a light temper in a toaster oven. Water might crack a piece or two but if you're willing to scrap a couple pieces it can make the 1095 very, very hard ...
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#3
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Thanks, yes I can see the post now. The only other steel I have is 440c, so I may order some 1084.
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#4
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If the 1095 heat treated is too brittle, why not just temper it back a bit? I don't see any need to make another file guide out of 1084 when the 1095 will work just as well???
Since a file guide is (relatively) thick steel (what...a quarter inch or better) and 1095 is shallow hardening....I think it's a great set up. Water quenching it will surely be brittle and I would definitely temper it. I made a set from .250" W2. Water quench. You can guess what happened when I torqued the guide down on my first blade. Yep. Snap. I made another set from the same W2, only I ran a 325F temper on it. It is a bit too long, I wish I would have made it shorter, but when you torque down on the top screw it bends like a contortionist!!! And works well. I do wish I had chosen a more abrasive resistant steel than W2 however. A2 probably would be a better choice. Or the carbide faced guides!!!!!! |
#5
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Depending on how thick the bars are you might well end up with a shell of martensetic steel around a core of pearetic steel or, possibly, it won't be able to cool off quickly enough to form martensite at all. Another point is that once you harden and temper the 1095 it may be softer and less abrasion resistant that the file that you're using. I agree with Ray that this probably is not a good application for 1095.
Another route that you might go is to get come carbide bars from someplace like MSC Direct and use something like JB Weld to glue them to the face of the file guide as Stu suggested. Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough Last edited by Doug Lester; 01-28-2015 at 05:50 PM. |
#6
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I agree with Doug.....1095 is not the best application. I have a set made up with thin carbide bars or faceplates over some 5160 stock. Just brazed the carbide to the 5160 and drill/tapped the steel for screws and guide pins just off the ends of the carbide. Been using it close to 20 years now, still good.
__________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#7
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Quote:
__________________ Mark |
#8
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Don't have a pic on hand but if you google "carbide file (grind) guide" by Riverside Machine, mine's almost identical just not as pretty.
__________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
Tags |
1084, 1095, 440c, 5160, back, bee, blade, drill, file, glue, hand, heat, heat treat, htm, knife, knifemaking, made, make, pins, post, small, steel, temper, weld |
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