|
|
Register | All Photos | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | ShopStream (Radio/TV) | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
Knife Making Discussions A place to discuss issues related to all aspects of the custom knifemaking community. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Weight of Anvil and the hammer
Good morning, I am now beginning to build a forge here at home, so, summer several posts of my questions yet. First thing I want to know is about the weight of the hammer and the anvil. A friend once told me that there is a relationship between these two. Can you tell me what it is? I am looking to buy an anvil and a 5kg 10kg and 20kg. What would be the weight of the hammer to each of the 3?
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
I'm not sure what the 5, 10, and 20kg refers to. The weight of the anvil?? i hope not! Your anvil should be at least 100 times the weight of your average hammer. Mine is 175 pounds, and that is on the "light" side. I use hammers from a 4oz head to a 24oz cross-pein, and a 3 pound and 4 pound sledge. I suppose if you make small blades you could get by with something lighter. My first anvil weighed 80 pounds and I was challenged to keep my hammer blows straight because the lightness of the anvil would make the hammer bounce back rather than absorb the blows. Your anvil stand is just as important as your anvil. Add some mass by selecting something heavy and blow-absorbing like a tree stump...
__________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Lukagabriel...I typically use a 2 pound hammer and my most used anvil weighs in at about 130 pounds. I also have a post anvil that weighs in at about 250 pounds.
The London pattern is a Peter Wright and it gives good rebound, but Not so much as to be a problem. My post anvil is shop made and is actually a better anvil for strictly bladesmithing work. It has no rebound and the effect on my workpiece is very similar to working with a dead blow hammer. On the post anvil, virtually all the weight is directly beneath the workpiece so that each blow is backed up by the full weight of the anvil. With a London pattern anvil, the amount of the rebound and the response of the workpiece is effected by where on the anvil you are working. It is best of course if you can limit your work to the center portion so that most of the anvils weight is directly beneath each blow of the hammer. On my Peter Wright, the anvil/hammer weight ratio is about 65/1, but I have no problem with that ratio. The kg weights you listed will be very light for an anvil....since your heaviest weight is less than 50 pounds. I think you should plan on going considerably heavier. I also agree with Chris that your anvil stand is very important and affects your work probably more than you might realize. It should be heavy, shock absorbing, and very stable. |
Tags |
anvil, at home, back, beginning, build, chris, forge, hammer, home, made, make, pattern, post |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Hammer & Anvil Bowie | Gary Mulkey | The Display Case | 2 | 03-24-2008 10:08 AM |
Forging hammer length/weight? | AUBE | Tool Time | 6 | 12-17-2007 10:33 AM |
New Anvil + New Hammer = New Knives | nc_cooter | The Outpost | 3 | 07-10-2007 06:50 PM |
Losing weight | S Swafford | The Newbies Arena | 3 | 08-17-2001 08:09 PM |