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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

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  #1  
Old 05-21-2002, 12:26 PM
Taz575
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15N20 vs L6


i know this is discussed on paltalk, but i wanted to bring it here for the other people.

Can you guys compare 15N20 to L6 for us? Grindability, availability, edge holding, toughness, corrosion resistance, polishability, etc and any other info. We got some good info on paltalk i wanted to share here, but I cant remember it all and don't want to mess it up.
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Old 05-22-2002, 10:18 AM
sjaqua
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That would depend on the intended use. Are you planning on using the steel as part of a pattern welded blade. Or is the steel to be used in a single alloy stock removal blade.

As a begining knife smith, I have been looking alloys that will weld togather well and produce a good contrast in a pattern welded blade. My first attempt at a ladder pattern was a failer due to the alloys being to hard to work for my skill level. I used some scrap bandsaw blade (m2) and some 1095 shim stock. The m2 is air hardening and didn't not hold the welding heat well at all. Also it shrunk much faster then the 1095. The result was cold suts that broke apart durning heat treating. (My very first attempt to patten weld was 1018 and bandsaw blade. The more ductable 1018, made the welds much less likely to bust. But the bilet was hard enough to make a good knife)

So in looking for a better steel mix I was directed to mix of 1084/L6 or 1084/15N20. Both should forge weld relatively easy. And both should produce good contrast in the pattern. I went with 15N20 on my next project, just because it was more available (at least from my sources). I let people know how that project goes, once I am done.

Scott B. Jaqua
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Old 05-24-2002, 08:47 PM
Taz575
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15N20 vs L6


good info scott!

i was talking bout single steel blades, but damascus steels bring up different topics, such as forging temp, etc.

I will try to remember what we were talking bout in paltalk that night.

IIRC, 15N20 is almost identical to L6? Some call it a super L6, but it rusts more. I think they also said it held an edge slightly better.

If a 5160 and a L6 and a 15N20 blade were put up head to head, i would think the 5160 would be slightly tougher, but the other 2 would hold an edge slightly better just look on paper, assuming the HT was correct for each steel. Does this hold out in the real world??

Also, how is 5160 compared to the other 2 in terms of corrosion resistance?

just trying to throw some topics out here for you guys to talk about
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