"New Model" Power Hammer

[DiamondG Knives]

Ed
Im going to go look at a power hammer this weekend. The owner says its a "New Model" Little Giant. Im not familar with Power hammers, much less what model is what. Was wondering if you know anything about this type hammer? Other than overall condition what should I be looking at in particular for potential problems? The owner is retiring due to health reasons, and says the hammer is set up and running good. Ive got my fingers crossed!

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Thanks and God Bless
Mike

[Bob Hartman]

Mike,
Mostly the obvious like you said. Look it over real good. Take a scraper with you to remove grime, and paint. No cracks in the frame, clutch pulley, and spider. These are nearly impossible to replace. Most can be fixed, but you wouldn't want tp pay much for the hammer. Next look for wear in the toggle arms, crosshead, and such. Take a 2X4 with you, and stick it in between the the hammer guide and the flywheel and pry up to see how much play in the shaft. And of course hammer with it if you can.
Bob

[Ed Caffrey]

Morning Mike!

I've rebuilt several of the "new model" hammers, and the last 25lb hammer I used in my shop, before switching to the air hammer, was a "new Model". The main difference is the guide system for the "slide". Rather than being a wrap around guide, it's a dovetail setup. I personally like it MUCH better than the old style wrap around guides. Most folks who used the one I had made the comment.... "This thing runs like a singer sewing machine!"

Bob mentioned most of what I would recommend. To add, check the dovetails....there should be some shims in it....which means it still has adjustment, and the dovetails on the slide haven't worn all the way down. If there are no shims, it's a LOT of work to repair the dovetails/slide IF it's worn out.

The pics are rather small, so I can't tell a whole lot. After the dovetails/slide inspection, the next thing that I would examine is the main shaft journals/bearing as Bob mentioned. Babbitt is not really that hard to replace, but the first time you do it can be an adventure. Most main journal bearings that have plenty of babbit left will have shims in the bearing caps, and if it doesn't, you want to see how much play is in there.

Finally, the clutch/flywheel. I always like maple clutch blocks in hammers....easy to replace, and just much nicer to use than the old cone shaped clutch with the belting.

Even it if does need work, and the price is right, it might be worth grabbing. Ultimately your the one who will have to decide how much time/effort/money you want to put into a hammer.
Keep us update!

[Karl B. Andersen]

Ask when the last time it was used, and how often.
One thing to keep in mind when using your LG is that it should be greased and oiled before EVERY use. And, oiled a little DURING use if in operation for long periods of time, like more than an hour.
You can always tell if a power hammer has been properly maintained the second you see it because it will be DRIPPING with oil and grease and there will be oil and grease all over the immediate area of use. After being in operation for any period of time, there shouldn't be one square inch of dry steel to be found.