MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > The S.R. "Steve" Johnson Forum

The S.R. "Steve" Johnson Forum Specialized knife making tips, technique and training for "ultra precision" design work enthusiasts.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 02-03-2015, 04:10 PM
TWITHERS TWITHERS is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Linden, CA
Posts: 56
You know I have finished the knife except for my mark and sharpening. I am hoping to get my new logo before the Expo and use it instead of my old one. The 416 was most definitely easier to saw, mill and grind but I still had to go high up in grit to get the finish I wanted. It really stumps me. My wife, comforting me as she does says "Well how long has Steve Johnson been making knives?" I say "oh 40 years maybe", she says "there you go". Didn't make me feel better. Ha Ha. If I looked at the finish in the sunlight it looked great, but under the fluorescent lighting I could see the scratch marks. So I went to the higher grits. I would have come back and asked for help, but it has been explained as well as it can be I think. I do like the 416 better. It was easier to work with. I'll try again.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 02-04-2015, 03:26 PM
Steve's Avatar
Steve Steve is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Manti, Utah USA
Posts: 1,244
Good report. Of course, 600x is necessary, or finer, before buffing. Depending on the light, you can never get rid of scratches! Polishing is nothing but ultra-fine scratches. For a bolster on a knife, I'l go to 600x, then as the disc wears, we then apply grease adn continue, until there is almost a polish. Also, the buffing compound must be very fine to give a super polish and even then, you can see scratches, if you get the light strong and bright enough. You're doing great, it sounds like!


__________________

http://www.srjknives.com
NRA Endowment Member
Knifemakers' Guild Member since 1971
"May you live all the days of your life." - Jonathan Swift
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 02-06-2015, 04:11 PM
TWITHERS TWITHERS is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Linden, CA
Posts: 56
Thank you very much. I'm gonna do some bragging now though you know? I'll say "Well Steve Johnson said I was doing good". Just kidding of course but I do appreciate it coming from you.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 02-06-2015, 04:36 PM
Steve's Avatar
Steve Steve is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Manti, Utah USA
Posts: 1,244
With my blessing .................as far as it'll get you..........


__________________

http://www.srjknives.com
NRA Endowment Member
Knifemakers' Guild Member since 1971
"May you live all the days of your life." - Jonathan Swift
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 02-06-2015, 10:52 PM
zappo's Avatar
zappo zappo is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 85
Send a message via AIM to zappo
Twithers,
Thanks for sharing the pics. That jig looks good!


__________________
Zane Blackwell
Member: Knife Rights
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 02-07-2015, 09:37 AM
TWITHERS TWITHERS is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Linden, CA
Posts: 56
No problem Zappo, and thank you. Little jigs are not so tough to make if your lucky enough to have some aluminum lying around. Although it would last longer if it were hardened steel of some sort.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 02-13-2015, 04:01 PM
zappo's Avatar
zappo zappo is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 85
Send a message via AIM to zappo
Twithers,
Dumb question of the day, just to make sure I get the full benefit. The screws in your jig, are to hold the guard to your jig??


__________________
Zane Blackwell
Member: Knife Rights
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 02-13-2015, 04:47 PM
TWITHERS TWITHERS is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Linden, CA
Posts: 56
The cap screws in the jig are there to adjust the angle of the entire jig. I cut the angle on the jig to approximately the degree I thought I needed. It was around 10 degrees, I think. So that gets the angle close then with the screws on each end of the jig I can turn the screw to raise either end and change the angle. Does that make sense? Remembering that the jig does not square the guard in the vise. The guard material should be square on the sides already then the vise will square the guard to the mill for the cut.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 02-13-2015, 10:03 PM
zappo's Avatar
zappo zappo is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 85
Send a message via AIM to zappo
Yes, thank you. I had read that in your earlier post and it didn't sink in...


__________________
Zane Blackwell
Member: Knife Rights
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
angle, back, bee, belt, blade, brand, buffer, easy, file, flat, guard, guards, how to, jig, john, knife, knifemaker, making, mirror, post, sand, sharp, stainless steel, steel, surface


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
big bear jes4e The Display Case 2 08-21-2012 03:56 PM
Bear Bowie B.Finnigan The Display Case 3 03-22-2009 11:08 PM
two bear stickers BDK The North Carolina Custom Knifemakers Guild Forum 5 02-06-2008 12:40 AM
Bear Stamp Gene Chapman The Outpost 6 11-13-2005 10:45 AM
Big Bear: MOP/Engraved dogman The S.R. "Steve" Johnson Forum 10 04-30-2001 10:21 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:49 PM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved