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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

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  #1  
Old 11-09-2012, 09:57 AM
bgmills bgmills is offline
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Lacing Questions

I would like to make some fixed blade and folding knife sheaths using a lacing pattern. I have purchased "Lacing and Stitching for Leathercraft" book from Tandy.

What type of stitching style do you folks recommend?

Where is a good place to get the lacing and lacing tools from?

I have made sheaths using traditional stitching using a stitching pony, etc.

Any help would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 11-09-2012, 11:50 AM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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Look for a stitching punch with multiple tines, the ones that make slits rather than round holes. Try to get one with longer tines or you might have a problem with the leather of the sheath being too thick. I think that I found one on Eleather. You might just have to try a couple until you get one. The tube punches are sometimes a little longer and you might have to resort to them with thicker leather, though personally I don't that the holes look as good as the slits. If the leather is too thick there may be not alternative but to actually drill the holes in the leather.

I like the lacing needles that have the split end that clamps onto the lace. I've not had much luck with the ones the the end of the lace "screws" into the needle.

I also like the lace with a slick finish one one side. You will have to make sure that you do not roll the lace as you work and put a kink in it. If you do, most of the time you are going to have to take the needle off the lace and pull it back out.

Most of my lacing is done with what is called a triple look lace, though with thinner edges I sometimes go with a double loop. I have used the basket, sometimes called the Mexican, weave on thicker edges but it is a lot of work. The other patterns that I mentioned only take two stitches to advance to the next hole where the basket weave takes four. You also have to take the lace through the same holes twice, except at the very beginning and the very end, which makes the lace harder to pull. I also punch round hole for the basket weave to make it as easy a possible to take the lace back through the second time.

I believe the book you have states how many time the length of the edge needing to be laced you need to make your lace. Add a couple of lengths to each estimate. For instance, if it says that you need to cut a piece of lace 6 times the linear length of the edge you want to lace, cut it 8 times or you risk having to spice in a piece of lace right at the end. By the way, the basket weave is a real lace hog.\

If I'm lacing a sheath with a front, back, and a welt in between I like to start lacing at the end on both sides and going towards the top. This makes the lace pattern run in the same direction from both sides. I'm still working on how to make the transition look the best but basically I lace one side and finish it then I go back run the lace under 3 or 4 loops on the back side of the sheath and take the first lacing stitch through the same hole that I started the other side with and proceed lacing the second side.

If I'm doing a pouch sheath, which is most of the time, I just start at the point and to up to the top. Remember to anchor the end of the lace by going under 3-4 loops on the back side of the sheath where it's not visible. If you are forced to splice, like if the lace breaks, try to make your splice on the back side of the sheath for the same reason.

Being that I'm only dealing with one needle, I don't use a stitching/lacing pony for lacing. Basically, I like to lace because it adds a little decoration to the sheath without having to tool the leather.

Doug


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Old 11-11-2012, 09:25 PM
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WorkHorse WorkHorse is offline
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When I am making knife sheathes and holsters I use the double stitch method I use it for almost everything I make.
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