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#1
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1/16" Pin Question
I recently made a knife and put 316 (I think) bolsters on it. I used a #49 bit to drill the holes for the 1/16" pins and after I polished the bolster there was an obvious gap between the pins and the bolsters. It may only be a couple of thousands of a gap but it is enough for me to notice. Most people have not noticed it but I am a bit too much of a perfectionist to let it slide. Nyone have any ideas on how to correct this? Smaller bits?? If so, what size? Peening?? Anything. Thanks
Daniel Last edited by dwc34205; 01-13-2014 at 02:31 PM. |
#2
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The little expierence with bolsters I have peening is the way to go. The kit knife I finished up with bolsters I had to peen them and then file them down by hand to make sure I didn't take to much off or you lose the effects of the peening and end up with the "gap" your talking about. Anyways just my two cents blade looks really good by the way.
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#3
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Try a #51 or #52 next time, do a tiny little countersink, and then peen the pins. If you do a good job of it and if the metal of the bolsters and pins is the same then it won't show.
The only way to change this one would be to replace the existing pins with 1/8" material and basically do what I said above, not a very likely solution on a finished knife. So, lesson: don't use expensive handle materials on a knife which contains features you have not successfully used on a plainer knife. Nice scales you have there. And that is just some of the many reasons I hate bolsters... |
#4
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Ha! Quickly getting there myself. I have enjoyed.....or should I say not minded bolsters from micarta or wood....but this has been a bit of a challenge.
Ray - Don't want to assume anything here. I always coiuntersink the back sides of handle material and the blade handle. Are you saying countersink the outside of the handle before peening? Also, do you glue the pins then peen? If so, do you let the glue set up to where it is tacky and then peen? I really appreciate the comments...and complement. |
#5
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I was referring to countersinking the pin hole. When you peen the pin, the end of the pin will spread out and mushroom (stainless doesn't always co-operate in this process). You need a little shallow dish around the top of the pin hole for that spreading pin to fill up. This is how the pin holds the bolster on the knife.
As for glue, ask 6 guys, get 6 answers. Personally, in the unlikely even anyone ever offered me enough money to make a knife with bolsters, I would glue first and peen immediately. This will squirt the extra glue out so be sure to have your blade taped to keep as much as possible off the blade. Doing it this way may seem messy but I think its better than letting the glue set up and then peening because if you have any solid glue under the bolster it will eventually soften if water or sunlight gets to it or when it gets enough vibration and that will allow the bolster to loosen.... |
#6
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***and if the metal of the bolsters and pins is the same then it won't show. ***
Pretty much a biggie right there. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#7
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I use 1/16" pins a lot! What it looks like is you uses a really thick stock for the bolster then carved in a deep contour cutting down past the cleanly peened portion. Been there done that. There are many ways to countersink or taper the hole. I have jewelers setting burs that are just a tad larger, and its easy to judge the depth of the countersink. Another one I've used is not round punch with just a few degrees taper to it. (2-5ish) you don't want too much or else you'll have to move too much metal to fill the day. Just set the punch in the hole and give a few taps with hammer. By having it not be round the pin can not spin or rotate if being used as a pivot pin for folding knife. Tapered reamers also work, but not as easy to find this small.
For bolsters... Leave enough excess to follow the gap. I file a slight but even doming on end of the pins. Give a square and solid tap, then recenter the pin if it has shifted more to one side of the knife. Flip... Tap other side... Delete till pin stops sliding back and forth through the hole. Then hammer it home making sure as much as possible is squished into the pin hole. Another important thing is keep pins and holes clean. Pin and dirt will make the circle show where the pins are. If you find there is still a slight gap, you can use either ballpien hammer, or hammer and a punch to kinda push the metal from the bolster toward the pin. Remember... Light taps= little marks.... Heavy taps= more time filing and sanding to get them out again. Gluing steel.... I don't do it. If something hits it hard enough yo shear off 4-6 steel pins, no amount of glue would have helped. Sanding flat, both bolster and tang to get clean fit, then hammer pins home. I set all pins so they stop moving first, then hammer on the overkill. Hope this is helpful Last edited by damon; 01-15-2014 at 06:52 PM. |
#8
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I've gone to using 3/32 pin stock for bolster pins. Easier to peen, IMO, than the smaller pins, and easier to hide than the larger pins. Use dummy pins and do most of your bolster contouring before you attach them to the knife permanently, so you won't grind down below the peened area. Countersink the outside of the pin holes. Use clean pins of the same material as the bolster. No glue. If you have everything flat and tight, there won't be a gap anywhere to put glue in If you do have a little gap and you want to fill it, wick some superglue in there. The peened pins are what holds everything together, not the glue. Glue just keeps moisture out of the gaps.
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bee, blade, bolsters, drill, file, folding knife, hammer, hand, handle, how to, kit, kit knife, knife, made, make, material, materials, metal, pins, scales, stainless, tiny, wood |
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