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| The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
12-20-2006, 12:22 AM
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how do i use carnauba
hi guys,
on my wood handled knives i have been useing super glue to finish and have recently decided to do a bit more experimentation to find something i really like, so i called in to the hardware store today and picked up some carnauba polish, its a mix of carnauba and bee's wax and aparently none of the nasties. it sais, a fast drying high sheen polish with a hard finish for all types of wood, apply sparingly and polish immediately. so, what do you think i should do with it? Im thinking rub it in to the wood with a cloth and then give it a quick buff with a clean new buffing wheel. how do you think that will go? will i need a few coats? brett __________________ Brett Holmes. Australian knife maker extraordinaire 
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#2
12-20-2006, 08:48 AM
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Why not try it and see? You don't have to do it on a handle, just a piece of wood. Then you'll know instead of guessing.
The only instructions I have ever seen for pure carnuba is to put it on the buffing wheel like a compound and the buff the wood. I tried that but didn't like it. But, you're wax isn't pure carnuba so I think the method you suggested sounds like a good place to start .... __________________ Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!   
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#3
12-20-2006, 09:23 PM
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Dunno how it would help, but in a magazine I saw an article of a guy doing napkin rings and he used carnauba for them. But I think it was pure. He said to just make sure the wax had no sharp corners to dig into the wood, and then he just applied it while the lathe was running, holding it to the wood, and then kinda burnished it with a cloth after to build up some friction and melt the wax into the wood more, and to shine it up as well.
Good info for a turned handle anyway *laughs*
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#4
12-21-2006, 12:24 AM
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Brett; Thom up here -
When I used to carve freehand briar pipes I used 100 % carnauba wax.. After sanding and staining - then it had to be buffed in with friction.. That was the only finish that was needed.. Made the wooden bowls really show the grain patterns.... Having it on top of super glue would defeat the purpose as the wood is already sealed.. How about if you don't use the super glue and then try the wax ?? The wax comes from a palm tree of sorts; and if I'm not mistaken - it is not a waterproof wax.. Like Ray said - " play and have fun... " Hi Ray - winter there yet ?? __________________ Be well.. Thom ( limpin' frog ) Davis Quote:
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#5
12-21-2006, 09:17 AM
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Yes, Thom, more winter even than usual. Temps were at -12 F in mid-November, much earlier than normal, and lots of snow and ice ...
__________________ Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!
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#6
12-21-2006, 01:44 PM
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<<<<<<< Hmmmmm>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ray; yer gettin what we normally get
Nuttin here at all .. Mild temps and hardly any snow at all / I keep thinking we is gunna get lambasted sooner or later like the Blizzard of '66.. I guess I can wait.. Have a Happy Happy Joy, Joy.. All the best to everyone out there.. We wish you all just enough.. __________________ Be well.. Thom ( limpin' frog ) Davis Quote:
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#7
12-21-2006, 03:14 PM
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I've used furniture/floor paste wax for years on my wood handled knives.
It works best on the super dense oily woods like rosewood, ebony, cocobolo, etc. After finish sanding the handle I rub in the wax using a 0000 steel wool pad, then polish it on a buffing machine using a clean wheel. As mentioned before, the friction and heat created by the buffing wheel seals the wood.
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