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Heat Treating and Metallurgy Discussion of heat treatment and metallurgy in knife making. |
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#1
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Elmax HT
Just hoping to get some pointers on heat treating elmax.
I have an evenheat, and have done D2 and 440c. I just finished prepping my first elmax blade for HT, and wanted to gain insight from anyone experienced with this metal. I loved the way it grinds and sands, but I'm a little timid about the HT simply because the stuff is so expensive - a botched HT could be expensive! So what recipies have worked well for you guys? Temps, soak times, cryos, etc... also what quenches have ya'll used? The manufacturer data I read talks about oil, air, and salt quench; but I've also seen mentions of plate quenching (preferred by me) Thank you |
#2
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.
Last edited by metal99; 04-22-2013 at 09:15 PM. |
#3
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bump this thread, hoping for anyone with elmax HT experiece to share their receipe. Just bought an evenheat KF18 and had it shipped out to me in Malaysia. double the US retail price after shipping and tax. I want to get its money's worth, so have a bunch of steel lined up for HT. Elmax, S90v, D2, 440C and 154CM all in stock at my workshop (backyard shack).
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#4
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It took me a lot of metal to work out my heat treatment. Elmax performs amazingly in the high hardness ranges. I do all of my blades to 62HRC now, and haven't had any sort of failure or complaints from buyers.
Unfortunately since my "recipe" ended up being a pretty expensive piece of information, I'm not giving it away. But I will say that the info you can get from alpha knife supply or midwest knife maker will give you a good quality heat treat, and a great starting point to experiment from and figure out what works best for you. Good luck |
#5
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greedy?
__________________ Austin Colvin |
#6
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Quote:
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#7
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I can see where your coming from BUT at the same time there are heat treat recipes all over the net. It's not like Mat is hiding the only heat treating recipe out there. I personally know a couple knife makers that have spent countless hours and lots off money developing a heat treat process that they are not willing to share with every one.
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
#8
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bufford is certainly justified in keeping hard earned info to himself. going from 61 to 62 on elmax is a good trick. 62 on elmax will give it 95% of edge endurance to m390 at 61 . my buddy confirmed directly with a metallurigist at bohler & following that recipe could only get 61. we checked his blade at a shop with 2 rockwell testers & got the 61. so either this maker has an oven that needs calibrating or he made a mistake. however this fellow is usually very careful with his recipes. cheers--cranky72
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#9
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Try the fastest quench which is oil, then plate, then air !
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#10
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hi boss
Quote:
0109335464 |
#11
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https://www.bladeops.com/Articles.asp?ID=272
If you have it already it then fine. I'm sure you've seen the standard HT data here. https://www.alphaknifesupply.com/zda...eelS-Elmax.htm I have reached a point that what the heck difference does it make between S3V or Elmax except stainless properties. Between S30V to S35VN and S110V a small amount of silicon, Vanadium is the difference and some flexibility. Nothing you can determine by hand or by eye. Next axe I make will be L6 or 4140 with a piece of 15N20 layered in between. My D2 knives will hold up to most just about any knife use it could be put through. I do not harden my knives past RC 60-61 as most people cannot sharpen them. No offense made to anyone here. My HT of D2 would be better than most anyone's. It is measured in degrees. I was told I should HT AEB-L to RC 62, but if it has the wrong edge on it it will be chippy (sorry stuart, even with the silicon). Besides I have had customers come back and complain their knives will not take an edge because they are too hard. Pisses me off having to sharpen a knife for someone who cut on a china plate or glass cutting board. They didn't hear me when I said they need a diamond sharpener. I give 400 grit diamond sharpeners with some blades and have to tell them to keep the blade away from a grinder cause they'll turn the tip of the blade blue. I do not sell to collectors/professionals except one butcher and she wanted a carver and a boning knife and she used a diamond round to hold the edge about once or twice a week at RC61, D2. I am a hobbyist with a fair modicum of experience, but do not have a name in the business, besides local. But as anyone has noticed, I will share what I do know. I have a fair amount of knowledge in metallurgy and certain steels, but obviously not all. Ask me about D2 and I'll show you a trick or two, plus was a Machine shop Heat treater. No expert, but can HT 4140 to RC 60. Some dry ice goes a long ways. Give me XX50+ and I can do a thing or two with it you wouldn't think possible depending on alloy. Call Hinderliter HT in OKC, OK USA, they used to be very helpful to me and taught me much. Under different control now, but still helpful, in Dallas now too. |
Tags |
154cm, 440c, axe, blade, blades, diamond, edge, evenheat, hand, harden, heat, heat treat, k12, knife, knife supply, knives, made, make, stainless, steel, supply, workshop |
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