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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

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  #1  
Old 02-04-2005, 10:50 AM
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Heat Treating Stainless In A Forge

Ed i read you had heat treated some s30v in your forge and would like to know if this is something for me to pursue.I can get my forge to run at pretty stable temps once its all dialed in. I am using a forced air propane set up and am able to keep the temps constant within about 50 degrees.Any and all information and help would be much appreciated.Thanks


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Old 02-04-2005, 11:46 PM
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First, PUT THE BLADE IN HEAT TREATING FOIL! I tried to do it without the foil and wound up with a blade that looked like honeycomb. Dial the forge into 1850-1900F. Place the foil wrapped blade in the forge, and once up to temp, allow to soak for 20-30 mins. Remove and quickly place the blade (foil and all) between two heavy plates (mine are 1"thick X 12" X12" aluminum) allow to cool and your hardening is done. I've had the best luck with tempering at 650F, 3 cycles for 2 hours each.

Just a little side note. I highly recommend that the blade is VERY close to finished before heat treating. S30V is just a bear to finish after its hardened/tempered.


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Old 02-05-2005, 10:50 AM
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Thank you Ed. I actually plan on using ats-34.I was very interested in hearing that using a forge for heat treating stainless is an option and it sounds like it is. I planned on using foil and was also going to try the brownells anti scale and see if it holds up.Thanks again.McAhron


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Old 02-05-2005, 12:02 PM
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McAhron, Brownell's PBC is only "good" to 1650F. Terry Primos recommends 25 degrees lower as a max. When it goes over temp it will turn acidic and pit your blade so bad you'll surely regret it; I can speak from experience. The Turco compound sold by K&G is claimed to be ok for the high temps of stainless. I bought a can but have not tried it yet.

Beware of hot spots in your forge leaving a blade in there that long. There is that trick you may have read of putting the pipe in there then blade in pipe to even out the heat somewhat.
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Old 02-05-2005, 03:44 PM
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Wait a minute.......I can't promise you that this method will work with ATS-34. ATS has a slower ramp time, and a couple of "hold" times in it's recommended heat treating.........what I wrote is intended ONLY for S30V.


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Old 02-05-2005, 05:35 PM
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You had to try S30V for the first time without knowing, too, Ed! Come on, where's your sense of adventure? After all, we're going to use McAhron's blade, gas, and foil, and he's gonna do all the work!!

Truthfully, if one can get the temp control there's no reason it won't work fine.
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Old 02-05-2005, 08:41 PM
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Fitzo your spot on about the pipe.I lucked out and happen to have a 2"x10" stainless pipe sealed at one end.Thats how im able to run a consistant temp.The pipe sticks out the rear of the forge through a piece of blanket and has a small hole drilled in it for the thermocouple.
Ed im aware of the ramp times and have been able to do it without any steel in it so i think im ready to go.the real question is how do i test it to be sure it came out ok or is it unneccesary if my temps and times are spot on.


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