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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 10-23-2013, 01:30 PM
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Wazukie Wazukie is offline
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Lansky Sharpening system

So I purchased the this system and discovered the hole degree guide holes are a little off. The one marked 20* is more like 15*

The way I checked was by putting a angle indicator on the guide rod, after making sure the clamp sat at 0*

Is a normal issue with this system?

Last edited by Wazukie; 10-23-2013 at 01:38 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-23-2013, 01:51 PM
Kevster Kevster is offline
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I've tried the lansky and didn't care for it, I bought a work sharp and it does a pretty good job, the only problem I've has with it is it scratches the blade about 1/2 up when I drag it through.


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Old 10-23-2013, 02:40 PM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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Tried the lansky too, hated it. Nothing like a good Norton stone and a little practice to put a good working edge on a knife.
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  #4  
Old 10-23-2013, 02:54 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Butch,

Doesn't really matter much what the exact angle is. Once the stone gets some wear on it the angles will change. Pushing hard will flex the system and the angles will change. Consider those marks as general guide lines and don't worry too much about what the exact number might be. The important thing is does it cut the way you want it to? Test thoroughly - you'll quickly learn what setting to use to get the kind of edge you want...


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Old 10-23-2013, 05:50 PM
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I also bought the work sharp and noticed the same scratch that Kevster is talking about. I also find it almost useless for D2 blades.

Quote:
#Nothing like a good Norton stone and a little practice to put a good working edge on a knife.
I never tried a lansky but do own a smiths set and it is covered in dust. I still need to get the hang of a nice precise sharpening job but I would have to agree. I think a good norton stone or similar is the way to go.
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:50 PM
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I'll second what ray said about the Lansky, I've used it a lot.

Although it costs a crap ton of money I have been very satisfied with the "wicked edge" system. With the additional electronic angle indicator you have a very good idea of what is going on when you set your angles.


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Old 10-23-2013, 07:10 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Just to be sure something is not being overlooked here allow me to state what should be obvious: none of these systems, including a stone, is particularly good for creating the initial edge on the blade, i.e., sharpening the blade for the very first time. For that, it's better to do the best you can with your belt sander and then refine the new edge using one of these kinds of tools....


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Old 10-23-2013, 10:12 PM
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Wazukie Wazukie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post
Just to be sure something is not being overlooked here allow me to state what should be obvious: none of these systems, including a stone, is particularly good for creating the initial edge on the blade, i.e., sharpening the blade for the very first time. For that, it's better to do the best you can with your belt sander and then refine the new edge using one of these kinds of tools....
Ya, I have discovered this to be very true. I have also discovered why the initial grind should leave no more that about that 20 thou edge. Trying to put the first edge on with the Lansky, is time consuming
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2013, 07:55 AM
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cbsmith111 cbsmith111 is offline
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Just buy that wicked edge. You know you want a 13.576 degree edge angle.
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  #10  
Old 10-24-2013, 08:12 PM
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GHEzell GHEzell is offline
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One thing to keep in mind: how high the blade is clamped, that is, how far up the blade from the edge it is clamped, will change the angle significantly. So the actual angle does vary...

I've used a Gatco sharpener, which is similar but, IMO, not as finicky to use. I've been using one to set up the initial edge on my knives for 20 years now, and am currently on my third sharpener (it was time for a new clamp). If you buy the coarsest stone they make, it doesn't take very long to reach a burr unless the edge is overly thick or overly hard. That said, Ray is right, a belt sander is faster by far...

As I said, get the extra coarse stone, and the extra fine, this will let you get a knife unreasonably sharp... when clamping a just finished damascus blade that you really don't want to scratch, put a piece of tissue paper between the clamp and the blade, just in case.

I can sharpen pretty good by hand, but I prefer the Gatco for ease of use and precision.

Edited to add:
I recently saw this ridiculously simple device used for grinding a false edge, but the same principle could be used for setting up a precision primary edge bevel.


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Last edited by GHEzell; 10-24-2013 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:15 PM
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racjarrett88 racjarrett88 is offline
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James Gibson was the maker of that jig. Could you send me a pic of the jig to racjarrett88 @ yahoo.com? I didn't get that close, Thanks


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