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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives.

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  #1  
Old 01-03-2011, 06:55 PM
JeffreyPrater JeffreyPrater is offline
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Rise & Fall Table

This is a Rise & Fall Table I built after reading Don's Book.

This is a WIP so I thought I would post it with a picture of the table.

The table is a big help in setting the open, half stop, closed positions. I am within .001 on this blade and spring, now the question is should I try to get the last .001 out or is this close enough?

Thanks,

Jeff Prater
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  #2  
Old 01-03-2011, 09:23 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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That's plenty close enough.
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2011, 09:24 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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That looks great!!
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2011, 07:06 PM
kcorn kcorn is offline
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Are there plans for the rise and fall table in Don's new book? Thanks for the help!
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2011, 07:40 PM
JeffreyPrater JeffreyPrater is offline
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There are a couple really good pics. Not actual plans that show you exact dimensions.

It wasn't hard to just look at the picture and build a table that works the same way.

I can get you a couple more pics of mine with dimensions if you think it would help.

If you get Don's book he might provide with his measurements as well. He has a lot of insight into tooling, you can tell he has a lot of experience with tool and die work (I'm not saying he is old) only a master at building jigs and percision work.
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  #6  
Old 02-05-2011, 09:21 PM
DaveL DaveL is offline
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Looks like excellent work and the table is just great and you are using it the right way. Way to go!
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  #7  
Old 02-06-2011, 07:57 AM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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How did that folder turn out, Jeff?
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  #8  
Old 02-06-2011, 01:07 PM
JeffreyPrater JeffreyPrater is offline
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It is still a work in progress!
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  #9  
Old 02-06-2011, 02:32 PM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Looking great so far, Jeff.
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2011, 10:23 PM
kcorn kcorn is offline
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Rise and fall indicator table

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffreyPrater View Post
There are a couple really good pics. Not actual plans that show you exact dimensions.

It wasn't hard to just look at the picture and build a table that works the same way.

I can get you a couple more pics of mine with dimensions if you think it would help.

If you get Don's book he might provide with his measurements as well. He has a lot of insight into tooling, you can tell he has a lot of experience with tool and die work (I'm not saying he is old) only a master at building jigs and percision work.
A few additional pics would be great. Also, can you explain how you mounted the indicator so it would be positioned correctly and would be stable enough to remain accurate? Thanks!
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  #11  
Old 02-13-2011, 10:45 PM
JeffreyPrater JeffreyPrater is offline
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Be glad to help, it will be a couple days but I will post some pictures and info
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  #12  
Old 02-14-2011, 09:39 PM
kcorn kcorn is offline
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Talking

Thanks for the help! Looking forward to it!
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  #13  
Old 02-17-2011, 05:01 AM
JeffreyPrater JeffreyPrater is offline
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The table is 3" x 7" made of 1/2 inch plate steel.

I milled a 3/4" wide 3/8" deep slot in the top.
I milled a piece of steel to fit the slot and surface ground the entire top.

On the backside I milled two slots and drilled from the back into the piece
of steel that slides. I threaded the holes and you can see there are two
button cap screws on the back that you loosen and adjust the distance
between the pivot point of the blade and the pivot pin of the spring. This is
very important ( I learned the hard way).

I milled a groove on the top of the table so the indicator would lay down closer
to the table.

The holder for the indicator is just a piece of aluminum with a hole drilled thru it
to fit the indicator shaft.
The aluminum is bolted to the side of the table with two screws.

I drilled and tapped four holes and screwed on four little feet as you can see.

This was built from items I had on hand, there is no specific reason it has to be as big as this.
The most important thing (IMHO) is the slide that allows you to adjust the spring and blade to the same distance in the liner.

I used one liner, laid it on the pins sticking up in the table and after the pins are in place
tighten the screws on the backside and remove the liner and you have it.

One other thing I have noticed the metal table needs to be thick enough for you pin to be rather solid, the deeper the holes for your pins the less slack or movement they will have when you are setting up a blade and spring.

If you have questions I will do my best to answer, and I'm sure Don could shed some insight as well.
Attached Images
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Last edited by JeffreyPrater; 02-17-2011 at 06:09 PM.
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2011, 12:14 AM
kcorn kcorn is offline
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Thumbs up Thanks!!

Hey, just wanted to say thanks for the information and all of the pics of your table. That really helps!
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  #15  
Old 02-19-2011, 09:52 AM
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Don Robinson Don Robinson is offline
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Every knife you make will be different if it's hand made. For that reason the slide must be adjustable. Jeff's fixture is fine. Mine have an adjustable slide that moves back and forth and locks from the top using a locking thumb screw that rides in a slot milled thru the slide. That way everything is visible and there's no reason to turn the fixture over.

That's the major difference.

Aso, sometimes it will be necessary to drill new pin holes in the slide to match different knives in order to keep the spring to blade attitude correct on the fixture.

You can see my fixture in use in the Toothpick stickies above.

Last edited by Don Robinson; 02-19-2011 at 08:22 PM.
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