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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 11-18-2016, 11:46 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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solder or braze

Hey guys so with damons help I think I have figured out how to make and attach the ferrule (habaki) spacers and the guard. but I figured if I can I would add a lil strength to the hole thing by either adding a lil solder or braze in some extra spots. I am just not sure what would be the best I only have about 6in of very thin 56% silv brazing rod, I have 12% silv brazing rods, silver bearing solder (don't know the %), so obviously the blade is steel (1084) I THINK the guard is iron but it may be some kind of steel I don't know if I can test that and I am going to use either copper or brass for the habaki and other fittings.....I am wondering with combinations of iron (or maybe steel??) for the guard and 1084 and then ferrule (copper or brass) to knife (again 1084) or the guard wich would be better solder or brazing. I don't have too much experience with either the only brazing I did was the threaded rod to tang on a previous knife wich both were steel so I don't know how these different materials would play in?
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:06 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Not sure I completely understand but if you have multiple layers of unknown and known copper or brass, I'd think solder is the way to go regardless. Solder will flow through, under and into tiny spaces throught capillary action. Brazing, as I understand it, just melts the rod onto the joint.

Some low-flow silver bearing solder, like Stay-Brite will flow at a very low temperature but high enough I'd guess, to change the temper if allowed to heat down the blade edge. Get on it and get off quickly with your flame. Be ready to cool the blade immediately upon the solder flowing.
I've had success with Stay-Brite soldering on some silver spacers between blade and handle on 1095, without hurting the temper. Brass or copper should work just as well.


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Old 11-18-2016, 12:11 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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More notes; StayBrite flows at about 430? so much beyond that, if the heat is continued, your temper can suffer. That's the point of "get on it and get off it" . If it balls up and doesn't flow, remove the heat, cool your blade and start over, making sure everything is clean.

Also, solder won't fill voids. Joints need to be nice and snug with no significant spaces. A little goes a long way.

You may want to practice on some scrap before committing to the real thing. Not much margin for error if you have a screw up and the solder flows crazy, there's not much undoing.


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Last edited by WNC Goater; 11-18-2016 at 12:14 PM.
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  #4  
Old 11-18-2016, 12:32 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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thanks! that what I wanted to know basicly what was better with the in know guard and either the coper or brass i9 didn't know if certain brazing rods or solder would stick to some material and not others. basicly most real katan's and wakisashi are made to come apart since I don't care if it comes apart or not I want to add a lil extra strength around the guard and ferrule area at first I thought of using that epoxy putty stuff and stuffing it in a couple areas where there may be a lil room but then I thought soldering or brazing in the tight areas might be better either way thos thanks wnc goater!
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Old 11-18-2016, 03:01 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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The StayBrite will stick to copper or brass and I know, 1095. So I'm sure 1084 is no problem. Stainless? I'd test that. I've yet to find any solder that would stick to stainless. It tends to oxidize before the solder can flow. Now I've not tried soldering to a stainless blade, but have tried repairing a multitude of costume jewelry, watch bands and cases, eyeglass frames, etc over the years in the jewelry business. Nothing works. I can sometimes get some success using a laser welder and stainless wire to braze it...but I'm getting off subject.
I would guess stainless would have to be soldered in an oxygen free environment.

Point is, that StayBrite should stick to copper, brass, carbon steel with no issues. Make sure everything is clean and has no oil, grease, or oxidation on it before fluxing. Clean bare metal.


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Old 11-18-2016, 08:50 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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There is a solder that sticks to stainless. Sadly I cannot remember the name of the stuff and it had it's own flux too, but that was years ago. I used to have to solder copper and stainless together. Use a flux made for your solder Dave and put it where you want the solder to stick and wipe it off where you don't. Put a cold wet rag on areas you don't want the heat to travel to. Something I've always done.
Brazing rods have differing melt points and I wouldn't use them if I did not know the melt temp of my rod as it could be 1000 degrees with some of them. Just FYI.
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Old 11-18-2016, 09:51 PM
damon damon is offline
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when I mentioned brazing.... it eas to close up the shape of the ferrule, not foe fixing it to the blade. youll not want to use the low temp solders for that..
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  #8  
Old 11-19-2016, 10:11 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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thanks guys....I ended up brazing the ferrule shut I am going to finish the fit up today HOPEFULLY
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1084, art, bearing, blade, brass, cold, edge, fittings, guard, handle, how to, iron, knife, made, make, materials, play, rod, silver, solder, spacers, steel, tang, temper


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