MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum

The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-13-2006, 02:07 PM
David Peterson David Peterson is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 288
Wood sheaths?

Has anyone done any wood sheaths recently? I looked all over and only found one or two examples. I'm looking for ideas to make a wooden sheath for a dagger. I'm thinking it will be made out of burl wood, and the only problem I'm seeing is the guard sticks out all around the knife. I thought about taking a piece of wood and splitting it at an angle, carving out room for the blade, then gluing it all back together like a mortised tang. The angle should keep it away from the guard and make the knife sit at an angle on the hip. I'd also like to find out if you guys think it's a good idea to glue pigskin leather inside the wood where the knife would contact the wood. I'm looking for any and all suggestions. Thanks guys.

-Dave
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-13-2006, 03:33 PM
cwp's Avatar
cwp cwp is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Emmett, Idaho
Posts: 1,178
David,

I know Jol Loose has done some recently, and Tai Goo does some, although probably different from what you are thinking. You might try this on the Outpost also.

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...hlight=gladius

--Carl


__________________
--Carl
N-T Porkin' Pig Price

?? KN Auctions to help a member in need and score a GREAT deal! ??
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-13-2006, 06:48 PM
Bearpaw's Avatar
Bearpaw Bearpaw is offline
Steel Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Silver Bay, MN
Posts: 145
David, Bill Moran made a nice video showing how to make a wood cored sheath. Check out this site.
http://www.centaurforge.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VHS96


__________________
Bearpaw
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-13-2006, 06:57 PM
Shakudo's Avatar
Shakudo Shakudo is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 672
i have been doing scandi wood sheaths lately and found a good tutorial that can give you the basics. personally i wouldn't put skin inside of a sheath,just another way to keep any moisture on the blade. most wood sheaths have a small drain hole drilled on the bottom for moisture removal.

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/content/a...showarticle=75

you may also want to take a look at Jake Powning's wood sword sheaths.

Last edited by Shakudo; 09-13-2006 at 08:08 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-14-2006, 02:58 AM
Ice Tigre's Avatar
Ice Tigre Ice Tigre is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Fairbanks, ALASKA
Posts: 862
Here's some ideas, if you haven't seen the page;
http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/edg...densheath.html

The way you said to taper it, is the way I did this one; http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=34083
so it would angle away from the body, although I tapered it too muck on the back so it turned out a straight drop. I split and route out the wood like a mortised tang. If you do put leather in it, it would make the fit easier to work out, the clearence in the wood doesn't have to be so perfect that way.

The hardest part for me is finding a mechanical way to atach the belt loop, with out epoxying it. (personal preference against epoxy on knives etc.) in those pics it had the original wood belt loop bolted on..... it broke too easily, so I ended up with leather on it; ummmm..... can't find a link.... to the pic.. nevermind.


G.


__________________
http://ak-adventurer.net/

Gary Blessing,
Ex-custom knife maker, Ex-Folder modifier & embelisher.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-06-2006, 04:17 PM
David Peterson David Peterson is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 288
The information is great guys. There's a lot of neat ideas I never would have thought of. It's been a crazy time around here, but I'm hoping to work on a nice wooden sheath when the weather gets cold. It's not far off here. I'll post my experience with it, and hopefully a picture if it comes out OK. Thanks again.

-Dave
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-07-2006, 12:46 AM
Ice Tigre's Avatar
Ice Tigre Ice Tigre is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Fairbanks, ALASKA
Posts: 862
I'm lookin' forwar to seeing what you come up with.


G.


__________________
http://ak-adventurer.net/

Gary Blessing,
Ex-custom knife maker, Ex-Folder modifier & embelisher.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-24-2006, 12:55 PM
AwP AwP is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 774
Unfortunately I no longer have any of my pictures, but I usually make wooden sheaths so I'll try to explain my method.

I use the 3 layer sandwich method. First thing I do is trace the outline of the blade on the piece determined to be the middle of the sandwich, and drill a hole in it slightly lower in the sheath that the point will reach (so when it's done the point won't stab into the bottom of the sheath). I'll saw a line from the top approx center down to the hole, the line should only pass through the inside of the blade outline, for an extremely curved blade you'll have to figure out how to saw that first line. Once the saw line is in there I'll use my belt sander to widen and shape that saw line until the whole outline of the blade has been ground out. The blade should be able to slide in and out of the piece at this point, if recurved catch on a spot, grind it a little more so it goes in and out easily. Glue the center frame piece to one of the outer pieces of wood, clean out as much glue as you can that oozes into the blade compartment. Once the glue is dry, grind the outside profile of the sheath keeping an eye on how close you get to the inside edges, leave enough space for glue. If you're going to put pins around the edge, now is a good time to make some pilot holes so you can keep it centered in the edge. Now slide the blade into your 2/3 of a sheath, and check how much higher the frame sits then the thickest part of the blade (hopefully the ricasso, might be tricky if the thickest part is elsewhere), remove knife and grind the sheath frame section thinner on a flat surface, recheck difference between blade and frame thickness and continue doing that until the frame is just a hair thicker then the blade. Glue on last piece, make sure not to put too much glue near the inside edge since you won't have a good way to remove the excess from inside the sheath. Once the glue dries, test fit the knife. If it's just right then great, if it's too loose then glue in a thin strip of leather or paper inside the top edge of the opening, on one of the flats (or both if one layer isn't enough to snug it), if it's too tight then... oops, you got some practice now start a new one. Once the knife fits well, I'll match the profile of the last piece of wood to the profile I already ground into the other two pieces. At this point you have a functional, yet ugly, sheath. You can skip the beltloop alltogether, or if you want one then now is the time. There's a few ways I've done belt loops before. I've just made one from wood and glued it on the back, that worked and seemed strong enough, but just doesn't look right. You can make one from leather, make a collar and attach a loop to that, then make an indentation all the way around the sheath near the top for the collar, slide the collar on the sheath and shrink it to a tight fit with hot water. Or there's another type of wooden loop that turns out better then just sticking one to the back. Glue another piece of wood just like the ones you made the sheath from onto the back, it should start halfway or a third from the top and extend out for approximately the length of the handle. If the guard is too wide you can glue on spacers in between the same way except only extending to the top of the sheath rather then the handle length. Once the long piece is on, make the loop by carving a small piece of wood into a flattened C and glue it to the top of the extention, now you have a belt loop. If doing pins then now's the time, if you made pilots earlier then just redrill the same holes so it goes through the third piece (fourth and maybe fifth too if you have the long wooden belt loop) and use small wire nails, epoxy then lightly tap them in. If using the long wooden loop I'd pin on the actual C loop at the top too just for safety. Now, whether you pinned or not, round out and smooth all the edges of the sheath, dye, oil, or treat however you like and you're done. Hope this helps, it's alot harder to explain in words then pics, I could have explained the whole process with 3-5 pics and typed almost nothing.


__________________
~Andrew W. "NT Cough'n Monkey" Petkus
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-26-2006, 10:22 PM
jdm61 jdm61 is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 599
Send a message via Yahoo to jdm61
The Bill Moran video is excellent. He makes one of his leather covered basswood sheaths, but the same techniques of carving would apply to one of his maple sheaths. The way the Maryland guys do the blet loop is either to leave the wood thick in the middle of the back and screw the stap on or to make a small loop put an ring in it and attach the main loop to the ring. That might be better for making the dagger lie flat.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-07-2006, 09:29 AM
Alberto Alberto is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Uruguay
Posts: 787
[IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG]Hereby a few wooden sheaths I have madeagger sheath made of wood covered wiyh snake skin,Puukko sheath,and small knife wooden sheaths on leather.Good luck with yours.
Alberto[IMG] [/IMG]
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
blade, knife, knives


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:43 AM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved