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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making. |
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#1
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Wood sheaths?
Has anyone done any wood sheaths recently? I looked all over and only found one or two examples. I'm looking for ideas to make a wooden sheath for a dagger. I'm thinking it will be made out of burl wood, and the only problem I'm seeing is the guard sticks out all around the knife. I thought about taking a piece of wood and splitting it at an angle, carving out room for the blade, then gluing it all back together like a mortised tang. The angle should keep it away from the guard and make the knife sit at an angle on the hip. I'd also like to find out if you guys think it's a good idea to glue pigskin leather inside the wood where the knife would contact the wood. I'm looking for any and all suggestions. Thanks guys.
-Dave |
#2
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David,
I know Jol Loose has done some recently, and Tai Goo does some, although probably different from what you are thinking. You might try this on the Outpost also. http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...hlight=gladius --Carl __________________ --Carl N-T Porkin' Pig Price ?? KN Auctions to help a member in need and score a GREAT deal! ?? |
#3
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David, Bill Moran made a nice video showing how to make a wood cored sheath. Check out this site.
http://www.centaurforge.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VHS96 __________________ Bearpaw |
#4
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i have been doing scandi wood sheaths lately and found a good tutorial that can give you the basics. personally i wouldn't put skin inside of a sheath,just another way to keep any moisture on the blade. most wood sheaths have a small drain hole drilled on the bottom for moisture removal.
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/content/a...showarticle=75 you may also want to take a look at Jake Powning's wood sword sheaths. Last edited by Shakudo; 09-13-2006 at 08:08 PM. |
#5
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Here's some ideas, if you haven't seen the page;
http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/edg...densheath.html The way you said to taper it, is the way I did this one; http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=34083 so it would angle away from the body, although I tapered it too muck on the back so it turned out a straight drop. I split and route out the wood like a mortised tang. If you do put leather in it, it would make the fit easier to work out, the clearence in the wood doesn't have to be so perfect that way. The hardest part for me is finding a mechanical way to atach the belt loop, with out epoxying it. (personal preference against epoxy on knives etc.) in those pics it had the original wood belt loop bolted on..... it broke too easily, so I ended up with leather on it; ummmm..... can't find a link.... to the pic.. nevermind. G. __________________ http://ak-adventurer.net/ Gary Blessing, Ex-custom knife maker, Ex-Folder modifier & embelisher. |
#6
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The information is great guys. There's a lot of neat ideas I never would have thought of. It's been a crazy time around here, but I'm hoping to work on a nice wooden sheath when the weather gets cold. It's not far off here. I'll post my experience with it, and hopefully a picture if it comes out OK. Thanks again.
-Dave |
#7
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I'm lookin' forwar to seeing what you come up with.
G. __________________ http://ak-adventurer.net/ Gary Blessing, Ex-custom knife maker, Ex-Folder modifier & embelisher. |
#8
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Unfortunately I no longer have any of my pictures, but I usually make wooden sheaths so I'll try to explain my method.
I use the 3 layer sandwich method. First thing I do is trace the outline of the blade on the piece determined to be the middle of the sandwich, and drill a hole in it slightly lower in the sheath that the point will reach (so when it's done the point won't stab into the bottom of the sheath). I'll saw a line from the top approx center down to the hole, the line should only pass through the inside of the blade outline, for an extremely curved blade you'll have to figure out how to saw that first line. Once the saw line is in there I'll use my belt sander to widen and shape that saw line until the whole outline of the blade has been ground out. The blade should be able to slide in and out of the piece at this point, if recurved catch on a spot, grind it a little more so it goes in and out easily. Glue the center frame piece to one of the outer pieces of wood, clean out as much glue as you can that oozes into the blade compartment. Once the glue is dry, grind the outside profile of the sheath keeping an eye on how close you get to the inside edges, leave enough space for glue. If you're going to put pins around the edge, now is a good time to make some pilot holes so you can keep it centered in the edge. Now slide the blade into your 2/3 of a sheath, and check how much higher the frame sits then the thickest part of the blade (hopefully the ricasso, might be tricky if the thickest part is elsewhere), remove knife and grind the sheath frame section thinner on a flat surface, recheck difference between blade and frame thickness and continue doing that until the frame is just a hair thicker then the blade. Glue on last piece, make sure not to put too much glue near the inside edge since you won't have a good way to remove the excess from inside the sheath. Once the glue dries, test fit the knife. If it's just right then great, if it's too loose then glue in a thin strip of leather or paper inside the top edge of the opening, on one of the flats (or both if one layer isn't enough to snug it), if it's too tight then... oops, you got some practice now start a new one. Once the knife fits well, I'll match the profile of the last piece of wood to the profile I already ground into the other two pieces. At this point you have a functional, yet ugly, sheath. You can skip the beltloop alltogether, or if you want one then now is the time. There's a few ways I've done belt loops before. I've just made one from wood and glued it on the back, that worked and seemed strong enough, but just doesn't look right. You can make one from leather, make a collar and attach a loop to that, then make an indentation all the way around the sheath near the top for the collar, slide the collar on the sheath and shrink it to a tight fit with hot water. Or there's another type of wooden loop that turns out better then just sticking one to the back. Glue another piece of wood just like the ones you made the sheath from onto the back, it should start halfway or a third from the top and extend out for approximately the length of the handle. If the guard is too wide you can glue on spacers in between the same way except only extending to the top of the sheath rather then the handle length. Once the long piece is on, make the loop by carving a small piece of wood into a flattened C and glue it to the top of the extention, now you have a belt loop. If doing pins then now's the time, if you made pilots earlier then just redrill the same holes so it goes through the third piece (fourth and maybe fifth too if you have the long wooden belt loop) and use small wire nails, epoxy then lightly tap them in. If using the long wooden loop I'd pin on the actual C loop at the top too just for safety. Now, whether you pinned or not, round out and smooth all the edges of the sheath, dye, oil, or treat however you like and you're done. Hope this helps, it's alot harder to explain in words then pics, I could have explained the whole process with 3-5 pics and typed almost nothing. __________________ ~Andrew W. "NT Cough'n Monkey" Petkus |
#9
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The Bill Moran video is excellent. He makes one of his leather covered basswood sheaths, but the same techniques of carving would apply to one of his maple sheaths. The way the Maryland guys do the blet loop is either to leave the wood thick in the middle of the back and screw the stap on or to make a small loop put an ring in it and attach the main loop to the ring. That might be better for making the dagger lie flat.
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#10
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[IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG]Hereby a few wooden sheaths I have madeagger sheath made of wood covered wiyh snake skin,Puukko sheath,and small knife wooden sheaths on leather.Good luck with yours.
Alberto[IMG] [/IMG] |
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blade, knife, knives |
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