New Milling Machine on the way....

[Ed Caffrey]

Well, my old benchtop mill has finally gotten to the point where its just flat worn out. I've been searching for a milling machine for while now, looking at a lot of different options, and finally decided to take the plunge and buy a Grizzly.... http://www.grizzly.com/products/G3616

All the other mills I was interested in where 3 phase machines, with price tags of $3000+, and then throw in another $1,000 for a rotary phase converter to run them...... more than I wanted to spend. It's got a 1 year parts and labor warranty, so, as hard as I am on machines, if it lasts the first year, it's a decent buy.

Had to do a little rearranging in the blacksmith shop, but now it should fit just fine. I'll let everyone know when it arrives (should be in the next few days), and once I get it set up and going, what I think of it.

[jdm61]

Ed....What do you use your milling machine for the most?

[Woodchuck Forge]

Congrats on the mill!! Don't know how I ever live without one. I was wondering though why you need a rotary phase converter?? I have a 2 hp 3 phase mill and ran it off a static converter for years. Now I have it hooked up to a VFD, 220 single phase in 3-phase variable out. Works really nice. Hardly ever use the speed adjustment on the mill. I also use the VFD for my grinder and buffer. A brand new VFD from MSC was about $350. Ebay has them even cheaper. By the By i finally got the temp prob set up for my forge. It is so nice to actually see what the temps are.. I can even set up to HT in the forge now. Really sweet.

[Ed Caffrey]

I do a lot of face milling on damascus billets for dry welding, and also face off the hammers I make to achieve the finished sizes prior to forging out the hammer head.


Chuck,
About the only way I could find to achieve the full rate hp of a 3-phase machine was with a rotary converter. All the static models reduce the hp output by roughly 1/3. I'm just going off what I have researched on the subject, and really don't have a lot of first hand experience. I do know that when I'm hogging off a damascu billet, I was really straining the 1 1/2hp motor on my old milling machine (and burning up drive bets way too fast!), so I didn't want anything that was going to reduce the power of the machine.
More than anything I wanted to keep it as simple as possible. All I have to do now is run the wiring from an empty 220v/30amp breaker in my box and the machine will have power.

[cwp]

Good to hear you finally found one Ed. I have a couple of Grizzly machines in my shop and have been happy with them.

--Carl

[jdm61]

Do any of you use your milling machines to mortise handles? All i have used my for so far is to cut slots in guards and bore and countersink a hole in a buttcap for use with the blind nut from a handle bolt.

[Ed Caffrey]

I do, on occassion, use my mill for rabbit tangs. I find it more time consuming and more difficult than just making a complete hidden tang knife, so I really don't do it all that often anymore.

I'm in an experimental project right now with some mosaic and the milling machine. My plan is to make a 9-way billet, with each bar being milled to resemble a puzzle piece, and then fitted/welding up that way. If my vision is correct (and I mill each bar in the correct orientation) it will have people trying to figure out how I made the patterns run the way they do. We'll see how it works out.


More than anything, my milling machine is a tool, to repair other tools in the shop. Since just about everything has be ordered in to Montana, and takes so long, it's often better for me to just make a new part, rather than have the down time waiting on a replacement.

[Bruce D Bump]

Wow, I checked it out and am really impressed with what you get for the price. It really looks like a great deal. Now you will need a DRO for it.

How much is the shipping?

[Woodchuck Forge]

Ed.

I am in the same boat as you regarding the power. I only use a 30 amp curcuit to run my entire shop. Even my power hammer and press. they both have 5hp single phase motors on them. With my mill, a full size taiwan type, I can mill .1 using a 1" single point cutter.but i do not like to. I try to keep the hogging to around .03-.05. The inverters do reduce the power some but i have not had any problems. You did seem to solve the problem anyhow. That machine looks like a lot of bang for the buck.

Chuck

[jdm61]

Originally Posted by Ed Caffrey

I do, on occassion, use my mill for rabbit tangs. I find it more time consuming and more difficult than just making a complete hidden tang knife, so I really don't do it all that often anymore.

I'm in an experimental project right now with some mosaic and the milling machine. My plan is to make a 9-way billet, with each bar being milled to resemble a puzzle piece, and then fitted/welding up that way. If my vision is correct (and I mill each bar in the correct orientation) it will have people trying to figure out how I made the patterns run the way they do. We'll see how it works out.


More than anything, my milling machine is a tool, to repair other tools in the shop. Since just about everything has be ordered in to Montana, and takes so long, it's often better for me to just make a new part, rather than have the down time waiting on a replacement.

The reason I asked is that I just thought that most smiths used the mortised tang for tricky materiels like stag and horn where you don't want to grind the surface features away or for traditional bowie handles. I have since seen a LOT of more standard styled wood handled knives done this way. I am wondering if i can also do it with micarta in addition to harder woods because right now, I am just starting up again and can't justifiy any more big equipment purchases. I have a harbor Freight type mini-mill but my drill press is an el cheapo, so i have had problems drilling straight hidden tang holes and opening them up, even with softer woods like maple. On a couple of occasions, i have had to finish out the hole with a hand drill and long bit. Thats ok on small blocks of cheap maple, but early on, i did mess up and crack a small block of ironwood. Fortunately, It wasn't my big A grade block I got from AKS

[SamLS]

Its the only mill I have seen where the x axis is able to rotate for an angle cut. I'd like to hear feedback on that feature and how it indexes back to zero ( is it detented like a mitre chopsaw etc.) It should allow you to machine tapered parts easily. Like a tapered octagon, groove tapered shafts like fluting rifle barrels or taper octagon barrels. Your also able to indicate it in with a precision angle gauge for a perfect 90 deg cut if desired.

Many may already know so please bear with me, when cleaning a mill or other machines, refrain from using compressed air. Compressed air can wedge debris between the sliding surfaces even if they are sealed with way wipers thus scoring the ways. Use a vacuum or brush. Rig up or purchase a way cover and use a good quality way lubricant. I have seen many shops mount a plate on their table and surface it on the machine and add pins or grooves ( in the sacrifical top only ) for quick mounting and indexing fixtures. It keeps the t slots from getting full of chips also.

[Woodchuck Forge]

WOW, The 45 degree table rotation looks cool. Seems like it has an alignment pointer but a 0 degree detent would be a great idea. i would still dial it in with the vise for the critical milling operations. Been up a creek too many times after trusting the mill was set properly. Can't wait to see how this puppy performs.

Chuck

[Ed Caffrey]

The mill arrived yesterday. I had it delivered to a local business, and had to rent a forklift to haul it to the shop......about 4 miles on a 5K forklift is about all a person would want to do...my kidneys are still vibrating!

Anyway, my first impression was "MAN! This is a BIG crate! The crate itself was 8' X 4" X4'.

The first thing I realized when I got the crate off was that this thing has to set UP on a stand for an American to use. If it were to set on the floor, the table MIGHT be 30". I had already assumed it would be short for me, and had built a heavy duty floor stand, which raised the whole machine about 10".
After taking inventory, I found that there were several things missing from the shipment. I took a complete inventory this morning, and called Grizzly about it. They were really helpful, apologizing the whole way. The missing parts (manuals, vise handle, some odd hardware, and two collets) are supposedly on the way.

The first step was to clean up all the "gunk" that they put on the machine to prevent rust. A dozen rags and a quart of acetone and the machine was at least fairly clean. Next came the wiring, which was easy because I had already ran a 220v 30amp circuit for it. All I did was add a plug (not provided) and it had power.

All of the movable portions of the mill have indexing marks, but I don't trust them. To that end I ordered a new dial indicator set up from Enco on Monday, which should be here any day now. There certainly isn't any lack of adjustability on this mill. The head moves fore and aft, and rotates 45 degrees either way.
The machine comes with a power feed on the long axis of the table (not sure if that's the "X" or "Y" axis)?. Everything seems to work as it should. This morning I went to the local scrap yard and found a chunk of aluminum for new jaws for the vise. mounted them, then milled them down. Now you have to consider, I've been using an OLD 1 hp benchtop mill for a number of years. I never realized just how much slop was in it, until I used the new mill. No jumping around, no chattering, no tool "walking". The power feed alone is worth me buying the mill! I think it's first task will be the face mill some damascus billets tomorrow. As I use it and figure out more about it, I'll let everyone here know how I like the machine.

[Ray Rogers]

X axis is your power feed direction, the long axis on the table...

[Don Robinson]

Ed, that's a great looking new milling machine.

Good on you.