Question about heat treat....

[claymoore]

Hey Guys. So for L-6 heat treat a metal site says hold at 1500-1550 degrees for 1 HR PER INCH. So does that mean if you have a piece 1/4" you hold it for 15 minutes? I hope this isn't to stupid a question, if it is oh well. Thanks Clay

[Ray Rogers]

It's not a stupid question, and I'm just glad you're actually reading the spec sheet and trying o understand it. I don't know the spec for L6 off the top of my head but I know it is basically a slightly alloyed carbon steel. As such, 15 minutes at temperature should be more than enough. Might get away with 10 minutes but I wouldn't really want to exceed 15. Anyway, it's a new steel for you so experimentation and testing is the name of the game as with any new steel. None of this stuff is exactly the same in every shop.

Now, that also assumes you are heat treating in an electric furnace. Otherwise, it would be near impossible for you to hold 1550 F for any given amount of time. In the even that you are using a forge then using a magnet to find the non-mag point and quenching a few seconds later is probably better than risking letting the steel get too hot ...

[Doug Lester]

L6 has the problem that a lot of tool steels have, it can come in a range of carbon contents. From hypoeuticoid to hypereuticoid which will make a difference in how it's heat treated. You really need to try to obtain an assay for the lot that you are working with and proceed accordingly. If you got it from the New Jersey Steel Baron Aldo probably has it.

If it's hypoeuticoid then a couple of minutes at 1550? might well do the trick. If it's up around 0.90% carbon then I would not soak at more than 1475? for 10 minutes.

Doug

[claymoore]

Thank you Ray and Doug. You guys reinforced what i thought and i appreciate your time. It will be something new when i get it, so i think it will be fun to try something different other than 1084, 1095. I do have a kiln Ray but even with a good heat source I'm still learning. You have a great point Doug and from what you and Ray said i think a test piece will be the way to go . This will be the first time i don't use Aldo's steel. Something about knowing you will always get good steel can make you spoiled.
Thank again

[Ray Rogers]

Several test pieces actually. Do four pieces separated by 25 degrees in the range Doug specified. Break the pieces and check the grain (a quick etch can make this easier). Break it by using a lever to bend it (clamp it between two pieces of hardwood sandwiched in a vise). Wear eye protection ....

[Crex]

L6 source? Important to know, as Doug indicated.
Do not go the route that seems to proliferate among the inexperienced in the heat & beat group, that all saw blades are L6, all "old" saw blades are L6, etc. Just not so, sometimes maybe, but most often not.

I agree whole heartedly with doing the multiple test route. Even with a known source, you need to find the recipe that works in your shop setup.