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The S.R. "Steve" Johnson Forum Specialized knife making tips, technique and training for "ultra precision" design work enthusiasts. |
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#16
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the one on the far left, is that like a chute knife??? |
#17
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chute knife
I will scan and post the pic tonight for all the whiners (Alex, Alex, Alex and Alex)! |
#18
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'Chute Knife
Taz, that has a sort of clip point, but it doesn't really resemble the RWL, Archer 'Chute. You'll see later tonight, unless you have Weyer's book IV. The RWL version, made by SRJ, is on the bottom of page 112 of Weyer' Book # IV. However THAT one has a five inch blade, it says, and the real version has a barely, 4 1/2", maybe even 4 3/8", blade. On the top of that same page, you'll see an authentic Loveless 'Chute, green Micarta and all, in the center of the arrray of knives. Thanks, Bob, for the photo work. |
#19
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Ok. I'll sit tight and wait for the pics! |
#20
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Hang in there, the photo I sent Bob didn't work. I'll try again later. Sorry! |
#21
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Here is Steve's Chute knife: And here are some Loveless knives. The center one is a Loveless Chute: |
#22
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Wow! very nice!! So kinda like a drop point with sharpened back. Question for Mr Johnson. How do you get the top edge grind to curve into the main grind? Grind the main grind first or after the secondary edge?? |
#23
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It is kind of a drop, I guess, but if you'll look closely, you'll see that the top edge, or clip, is a pretty straight line, not a curved line, as in a drop point. Actually, I guess I usually grind the bottom first, then the top but it doesn't matter, really. Scribe a line about where you want the top of the grind line to be, and it may come out at the point about 1/8" - 3/16" below the actual point of the knife, and then grind to it. The blend will take care of itself. However, be careful you don't get the point too thin. If you swing the bottom grind too far up, following, to some degree the curve of the edge, into the point, it'll remove too much metal. Then when you grind the top clip down to where the line was you'll lose too much steel and the point will be too thin. There's the school that wants a heavy point to withstand heavy work and prying, etc. Also those who like a thinner point for easier cutting/penetration. This is a survival knife, so I lean toward the heavier point. The customer may have a thought on what he prefers. You have to make the grinder do what you want it to do, and concentrate, or you'll end up with a point that you hadn't planned on. Of course, you can always make a shorter blade! |
#24
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Those are real nice....!!! However it is not the one i was thinking of...gotta warm up the scanner and find that pic...was in Blade Magazine some time ago. |
#25
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Another photo of the "Johnson" Archer 'Chute will be on the way today. The one above is actually a 5" bladed version of the Loveless pattern, which Harry and Bob came up with. The original one has a 4 1/2" blade. |
#26
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Steve, if you knew how much your knives, especially yours and RWL's Chute knives have influenced me through the years, well its a lot! I am going to grab some paper and start drawing my SRJ influenced Chute knife! |
#27
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'Chute Knives
Thanks, Rob. After you get the SRJ 'Chute designed, do an RWL - inspired one, you might be able to SELL some of those! Hey, wouldn't a Talonite 'Chute be just the thing? |
#28
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Re: 'Chute Knives
You are a humble man Steve! |
#29
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Re: Chute Knife
I'm glad you can tell the difference Steve. I'm glad I got Gene to do the forum by himself while I'm at work. I just forgot to teach him how to logon and left myself logged on by accident. |
#30
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Re: Chute Knife
As soon as I get a handle on making guards, I will definitely have a chute design. They are relatively compact, stout, and an all around excellent working pattern. And they look so good... |
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blade, forge, knife, knives |
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