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The S.R. "Steve" Johnson Forum Specialized knife making tips, technique and training for "ultra precision" design work enthusiasts. |
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#16
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I haven't had that problem, I hope someone can help you. You might ask the same question in the Tool Time forum, as recommended above. Sorry. |
#17
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It just so happens that the Tool Time guy came here today for a visit. Normally when a blade cuts on one side more than the other, it is a worn blade. Twisting around corners breaks the teeth off of one side quicker than the other. Once the rake is broke, you can't adjust it out anymore. You will also see two guides for your blade on top and bottom of the cutting head assembly. These guides can be adjusted to cut straight. One last hint, The upper guide can move up and down. Take all the slack out, that you can. Get the guides as close together as they can go.(height wise) If the upper guide is too far up, it causes flex in the blade, you don't want flex. If you want to adjust your machine, do it on a new blade, not a used one. If you want "that" blade to cut more staight, run a file on the sharp side and dull it the same as the other side.(basically this takes off the rake) Most common problems are slack in the guides of the machine, or cutting corners too tight. Adjust your machine, slow down a little around corners, and you might try a lubricant like a spray mist while cutting. |
#18
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Great advice, Gene. I might add that if you'll cut srtaignt lines and no curves, or at least minimize the cutting of surves, the balde will last a lot longer. In cutting a curve, just cut a short straignt line, then cut that part of the bar off, cut another short straight section and cut it off. Making "steps" along the curve which can be ground off smoothly very quickly. You might lose a little time with the extra cuts, but you'll save the blade. A long open curve isn't a big problem, it's the small tight ones that wear the one side of the blade more than the other. Thanks again, Gene |
#19
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A tip on bandsaw blade prep, to make them cut straighter,last longer, do curves better, etc.,take a pocket stone, or some other kind of sharpening stone and gently round the back of the blade as it is running, the side opposite the teeth.Do both sides. I dont remember where I heard that or who told me, but it does work.:cool: |
#20
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Interesting, Mike. I'll give it a try next new blade I install. |
#21
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band saw blades/speeds
I have a little additional info. to add to that fast saw I'm useing. A knife making friend and I were talking about this type of saw. He passed on to me that he had found that this type of friction cutting was with our "home made type" set up limited to about 5/32" material. Of course I had to find out if my findings were the same as his and After a couple of trys I had to agree that that thickness of 5/32 sure seemed to be the limit. Regards Frank Niro |
#22
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Re: band saw blades/speeds
Good info. Frank. That'll save someone some frustration, I'm sure. |
Tags |
blade, knife, knife making |
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coldtracker, Eldon Talley, fogwoman, Willem |
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