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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #16  
Old 05-12-2013, 08:21 PM
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Naboyle Naboyle is offline
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Thanks Ray. Jdale are you mounting the burner directly into the forge? I used a slightly over sized piece of pipe that I welded into my horizontal forge. Then I could slide my burner in and out or remove it completely.
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  #17  
Old 05-12-2013, 08:45 PM
jdale jdale is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naboyle View Post
Jdale are you mounting the burner directly into the forge? I used a slightly over sized piece of pipe that I welded into my horizontal forge. Then I could slide my burner in and out or remove it completely.
I am going to be mounting a 1.25" or 1.5" pipe off center to the bod so i can insert the burner, and replace when needed. If i am unable to get non galvanized Any idea on how far i need to keep galvanized from the forge to be safe?

Metal99, I know a lot of people use a vertical forge for welding as because the flame enters at the bottom and is more indirect, allowing for more even heating. The vertical design gives the flux somewhere to pool away from the work.
I have also heard that the distance up to the metal allows more oxygen to burn off so less fire scale on the metal.
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  #18  
Old 05-13-2013, 06:15 AM
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Naboyle Naboyle is offline
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I really couldn't give a distance. I'd say if you have to use it, put it where u think it'll stay cool and try it. If it gets hot or starts to smoke then you know your to close. On mine from the T where the propane enters is about 10 inches from the end of the burner and it stays completely cool. Probably due to the cool propane entering the burner. After shut down I let the blower run for a while to cool things off. Then I pull out the burner and let it cool more before I shut the blower off.
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  #19  
Old 05-13-2013, 07:15 AM
jdale jdale is offline
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Good point. I have been thinking about how my venturi powered forge operates when i have been designing this one. I always remove the burner after use because it heats up, but that shouldn't be an issue with the blower, and the fact that i will have the burner in-letting in the bottom.
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  #20  
Old 05-13-2013, 07:36 AM
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If you were closer to me I'd just get ya whatever piece you needed. Just experiment with it. If it smokes, shut it down and evacuate the shop! Haha
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  #21  
Old 05-19-2013, 09:36 PM
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I mounted the section of pipe for the burner inlet, placed in some kaowool, and set it up for a test burn. I did learn quite a bit from the 5 minutes I ran it. 1-The bathroom fan worked really well, if anything it needs a better gate as it seemed to blow too fast. 2- with only 1" of kaowool welding temps were easily within reach. 3- I need a new probe for my pyrometer as I most certainly reached welding temp by melting part of the 2300?f probe.[IMG][/IMG]
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  #22  
Old 06-09-2013, 01:48 PM
jdale jdale is offline
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Tried forge welding last night. I only had 1 layer of Sanite in the forge and 1 layer of kaowool in the cover. I tried using 2 4.5" pieces of 1/4" 01 and 2 pieces of 1095. They seemed to weld but there is a very faint line where they welded together. I realised my pyrometer only goes to 2000 deg so I'm not sure how much above 2000 deg it was.I'm not sure what psi everyone runs to weld but I had it at 10psi than turned it to 12 to be sure I would get temp. I am going to put at least 1 more coat of Sanite than a layer of itc100. The press worked some what OK, but it didn't have the strength to press out the marks I made while attempting to stretch it with a round bar. Sorry for the spelling or grammer I'm posting with my phone.

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  #23  
Old 06-09-2013, 02:17 PM
metal99 metal99 is offline
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That looks like it welded up fine to me. I don't have any experience with forge welding tho lol. I'm sure when your welding two metals that are so different together your going to see the line like that simply because the metals are a different color from each other.

Do you really want to be welding o1 and 1095 together for a blade? They harden completely differently from each other so I could see it posing a little issue in heat treat. But, like I said I honestly have no experience when it comes to this stuff.


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  #24  
Old 06-09-2013, 02:43 PM
jdale jdale is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metal99 View Post
Do you really want to be welding o1 and 1095 together for a blade? They harden completely differently from each other so I could see it posing a little issue in heat treat. But, like I said I honestly have no experience when it comes to this stuff.
I'm not going make a knife out of this billet. It was just some scrap I had in the shop. Once I feel like I know what I am doing I will be using the 1080 and 15N20 I got from Aldo. For as much as I paid for the stuff I don't want to waste any of it.
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  #25  
Old 06-09-2013, 04:03 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I'd suggest you put the round dies aside for stretching. Make some using 1" square bar and you won't have so much trouble removing the dents the stretching operation makes ...


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