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The S.R. "Steve" Johnson Forum Specialized knife making tips, technique and training for "ultra precision" design work enthusiasts.

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Old 05-23-2002, 06:53 AM
RJ Martin
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Soldering Update


Since my last "soldering post" I have soldered several 416SS guards to CPMS30V blades. I use a Milwaukee heat gun from Home Depot. It works well, but, for these larger blades, the heat needs to be applied directly on the joint from the topside as the solder is applied.

The Eutectic 682 flux works fine, although the Vanadium content in the steel reacts with the Zinc in the flux. I spoke to Crucible on this-All the fluxes have Zinc in them. So, the soldering of the CPM alloys is going to be more problematic than the soldering of the older stainless steels.

After cleaning the guard and solder area with acetone, I applied some Nitric Acid with a Q-tip to the area of soldering. This removes any oxide from the metal. Then, I dried the parts with a clean Q-tip.
Then, I pinned the guard to the blade.

With the knife point up in the vise, and the guard level, I applied the heat from below for several minutes. Then, I applied flux along the joint from the top and continued heating until I could melt the solder at the joint. Unfortunately, the solder just doesn't flow out right there. It flowed fairly well on the guard, but, not the blade. I used a steel rod, dipped in flux, to rub the blade around the joint, and, the solder gradually wet onto the steel. Heat was applied directly to the joint from the top during the "scrubbing" operation.
The blade turns grey from the flux-I think this is the reaction of the Vanadium to the flux-, and, I think you've got to disturb that layer in order to make the solder wet out.

The solder would not run through to the backside, so, once I had a full, perfect fillet around the front of the guard, I let the joint cool and turned the knife over so I could add a bit of solder along the top and bottom of the guard where the knife's tang met the guard. Again, heat was applied directly and some rubbing of the blade with the steel rod was required.

I soldered a guard or two using a propane torch, and a butane micro-torch. Neither of these did any better than the heat gun, and, produced a bit more discoloration on the blade from the flux fumes. I like the heat gun best.

Ultimately, the joint and the blade cleaned up beautifully. Soldering seems to be one of those operations that just takes time-you can't rush it, and, you have to spend time cleaning up afterwards.

If anyone has soldered guards to the CPM alloys with different results, I'd love to hear them.

RJ Martin

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Old 05-23-2002, 07:41 AM
RJ Martin
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Les: Please move this into the SR Johnson Forum. THANKS!

RJ
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Old 05-23-2002, 02:45 PM
srjknives
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Thanks, R.J.

Soldering SS will not be a flow-through deal. It basically stays on the front. I leave the back open and then boil the soldered blade in soapy water, with baking soda added, for 3-4 min. to neutralize trapped flux under the guard. I even like to grind a hollow in the tang, under the guard, to let the water in. An SS pin is going to do the holding in place, I feel. Keep working with the heat gun, it does take a while with a big,thick blade and a large guard.

Helpful report. Thank you.
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