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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith. |
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#1
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keeping handle lined up with blade
Hi Ed!
Quick question: I've run into this problem a few times and was wondering if you have any tips/tricks/fixtures,.... for keeping the handle lined up with the blade when grinding the handle material. On a couple of blades (one I'm working on now), even if I do my best to eye ball it, as well as mark a center line on the top and bottom of the handle material, I find when I'm close to having it all ground, the butt end is out of line to one side (slightly). Thanks! Dana |
#2
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Dana all my hidden tangs are done similiar to the way Karl Anderson and others do their take down hidden tangs.Use hidden pins to keep everything aligned, and you must have a tight fitting guard,spacer,etc.The pins go half way into the back of the guard,through a spacer ,and into the handle.I use 1/16th stainless pins.I also do the buttcaps this way.With a tight fitting guard,and pins,everything stays alighned each time you dissasemble and allows you to get a perfect center line for keeping the handle and blade square.Look at Karls take down hunters he posts and you'll see what I mean.Good luck.
__________________ N'T McAhron Sqwaukin Vulture Verrinder "to create is to make art" TREMBLING EARTH KNIFE WORKS |
#3
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Thanks McAhron...
I'll have a look-see on Karl's website.
By the way, I recall as a youngster, camping near/in La Honda state park. Our family belonged to the S.F. Gem and Mineral Society and they used to frequent that area on their rock hunting expeditions - beautiful country! Best regards, Dana |
#4
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Dana,
If your doing things the way we did when you where here, the problem is that your getting over zealous grinding, and not enough looking. Remember, you have to look at things from the top, the bottom, the front, and the back. Slow down a little bit on the grinding.....you should be looking twice as much as you grind, and you'll catch things before they get too far out of whack. __________________ WWW.CAFFREYKNIVES.NET Caffreyknives@gmail.com "Every CHOICE has a CONSEQUENCE, and all your CONSEQUENCES are a result of your CHOICES." |
#5
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Thanks Ed!
You nailed it,Ed. I do need to slow down.
I backed off using the grinder last night and just used my files and sand paper and got the handle straightened and aligned. I was sweating this one out as I had a really beautiful piece of English Walnut on this puppy and was afraid I was going to have to use it in the "barby"! I now have three knives done for the Blade West and have another 4 or so that I should have complete by the time the show rolls around. Kind regards, Dana |
#6
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Mr. Caffery said it well - slow down!
In addition, and I do this on EVERY KNIFE!!!! I use a SHARP SHARP SHARP belt - 36 grit - to do just a little bit of basic stock removal on the handle material. Sharp so as NOT to introduce any heat into the handle material. I keep a "designated" belt off to the side for just this purpose. I've been using the same belt on the last 20 knives and it is still like brand new. Then, I'm DONE! with the grinder! I mean NEVER to go back to it again as far as that handle goes. I mean I just knock the corners off to some lines I've drawn on the handle. Then, across the shop to the bench vise! Stick that blade in the vise - covered and protected of course, and finish it out with FILES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A sharp course file will remove material amazingly fast and you are in control on EVERY STROKE! Make a few strokes, look down the knife, remove a little on the other side, etc. Then go to a little finer file. One of the best investments you will ever make is a Nicholson #49 and #50 cabinet maker's files sold by Brownelle's. Gun makers use them to shape butt stocks on custom rifles. Combo round and flat. One is course and the other fine. Here are some examples of that process: __________________ Blade Show Table 8-Q What do you do when you see your ex in pain, limping and bleeding? Relax. Take a deep breath. Reload and then shoot again. http://www.andersenforge.com/ Last edited by Karl B. Andersen; 08-01-2007 at 07:45 PM. |
#7
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On a piece of wood as small as a knife handle, "fine" grit sandpaper (fine by woodworking standards) like 120 and 220 will sand down at a decent pace and leave a much smoother initial finish than 36. I do like Karl and rough it out with 36 and then go to hand work. I like the 50 yard x 2 inch shop rlls that Tru Grit sells for both metal and wood sanding. 36 grit scratches.....gouges is a better term... can hide in a lot of places, so leave some meat on the handle.
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blade, knife, knives |
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