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  #1  
Old 08-11-2016, 11:54 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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epoxy question

Is there any factors besides the amount of hardener to epoxy that will effect the time it takes to set up? I was using the 15 min mid cure epoxy not the one I use all the time but sometimes and this time it set up very quickly I almost didn't make it. its never set up that quick before on the box it say "apply in temps above 65 deg, can be worked for 10 min with adheasion after 15 min" it gave me barely 5 min if that. I know the ratio was correct could temp be a factor to day is a very hot day and it was the first thing I did today so the air conditioner didn't have time to cool down the room, is there anything I could have over looked that pops into anyones mind?
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Old 08-11-2016, 01:46 PM
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High temperatures will shorten the pot time....


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Old 08-11-2016, 01:50 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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alright that may have been it I will have to let the room cool down a lil from now on thanks
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Old 08-11-2016, 02:01 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post
High temperatures will shorten the pot time....
That^^


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Old 07-13-2017, 12:45 AM
TheDrover TheDrover is offline
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In regards to heat and epoxy lately I have been running into issues with my epoxy letting go as I finish shaping my handles. I've always used Gorilla Glue ten minute epoxy and let it sit for a few days. most of my blades have been hidden tang but I'm trying to do more full tang knives as i like the look. I typically use an angle grinder to do the bulk of my shaping. any suggestions?
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:12 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Ratios are the most important issue.

Dave if you mix in a little too much of the quickener or catalyst (they never say which is which) it will set up fast, I do mean fast. The opposite is also true if you don't get enough catalyst in the mix it can take much longer or not work at all. A 15 min epoxy should not set up in 5 minutes under 85 degrees. I use nothing, nothing, but 30 minute epoxy or JB Weld if brass is involved. Accra-glass at least has very clear instructions. It all still takes overnight to harden completely anyway, why bother?

If you need a quick glue joint then go with the CA glues and leave the 5-10-15 minute stuff behind you.

Drover HEAT will loosen epoxy glues so if you are getting your tang too hot the glue will let go. Keep the temps down.
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:19 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Also Drover, if you can keep it hidden JB Weld is a 600 degree epoxy, but is a dark grey/black color. Cleans up before hardening with lacquer thinner. I use it for hidden tangs and for glueing brass as regular epoxy doesn't stick to it well. I have used it on a full tang and it left a nice line around the tang.

Last edited by jimmontg; 07-13-2017 at 01:23 AM.
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:30 AM
TheDrover TheDrover is offline
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jimmontg:do you you know of anything high heat like that that is clear or amber?
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Old 07-13-2017, 02:09 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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No Drover I am sorry I do not, but maybe somebody else does.


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Old 07-13-2017, 07:16 AM
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Jim is dead on. Get away from the fast set glues. The "Glue Wars" thread explains all this. They just aren't as strong as the long cures.

You can colorize JB Weld to solid black with Aluminte Dye from a hobby shop. You can also pink it up a little with the red dye. Clear epoxy can be colorized just about any color the same way.


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Old 07-13-2017, 08:26 AM
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Find another way to shape the handle, that angle grinder is creating far too much heat. If you did find a glue that could take more than 600 degrees then your handle materials would likely start to burn or melt so a higher temp glue is the wrong way to go.

Get a cheap belt sander and use fresh belts and you'll have much less heat. If you can't do that then do it by hand with a good file and some sandpaper ....


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Old 07-15-2017, 10:29 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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What Ray said.

A high temperature glue is for knives that will go into a dishwasher, not for too hot grinding temps. What kind of a grinding grit are you using on your angle grinder? I use an angle grinder to take down metal sometimes, but rarely on handles except maybe an axe handle.

I use a 4 1/2 grinder and will use 60-80-100-120 grit sanding pads. Change the pads often and you will have to finish by hand as any higher grit on a small 4 1/2 pad will clog up fast if you glue a finer grit on there. I've done it and put 220 sandpaper on a 120 worn out pad. Clogs up in 30 seconds and starts burning wood afterwards. If you have no choice, but to use an angle grinder then you really need to get a belt cleaner and change those pads often when they stop taking the handle material off easily, like a minute or two is all. Buy an inexpensive 2x42 belt sander and get the belts from Tru-Grit.com

This is the best 2x42 belt sander for the budget minded knifemaker, they make better, but the price goes way up. They make cheaper too, but they are weak for the most part. There are knifemakers who use the 2x42 and though not ideal, it's better than an angle grinder. It comes with a 6" disc too for doing flats or angles.
https://www.zoro.com/dayton-beltdisc...45/i/G2309045/

Like Ray said, get a cheap belt sander, a 1x30 from harbor freight is cheap too, but those little belts don't last long and you'll be burning handles real quick if you try to save on belts.
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Old 07-15-2017, 04:55 PM
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Jim,

Can you take a look at your 2x42 and see if the two wheels can be swapped? If the smaller wheel could be the drive wheel then the belt speed would be reduced and the torque would increase ...


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Old 07-15-2017, 08:31 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Ray, I have a 2x48 Dayton 3/4 HP

It was on sale for $228 dollars when I bought it. It needs modifications which are fairly easy for me to do. As for the Dayton 2x42 I don't know what size wheels it has although I understand where you're coming from. I doubt the wheels are able to be swapped. Just doesn't look like it. I know 4400 SFPM is fast, but with the right belts and belt lube it shouldn't be a problem. I used a hi-speed Kalamazoo for years and it really just comes down to not over using the belts past their prime. Like I said, and you have as well, DO NOT get cheap with the belts.

A 1x30 is half of the cost of the 2x42 and it is less than half the grinder. Just recommending something that may be in Grover's price range. An angle grinder is fine for steel stock removal if you're good at it, but is a poor choice for handle material, especially if burning up the handle material and loosening the epoxy.


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