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  #1  
Old 06-08-2016, 10:47 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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?!?Band saw blades?!?

Hey guys so i am curious as to what type of bandsaw blades everyone uses....i had got a band saw from harbor frieght a while back and grabbed 2 bi metal blades (the only bi metal they had) and one of the cheaper ones then a few weeks back i was in the area and got another one (should have got more but didnt have the $) so now all my bi metal ones are real dull i do still have the cheap one i am about top go put it on and use it in a minute. but i think i am going to order blades this time cause harbor freight is about 45 mins from me and the only thing closer is Home depot and they dont have them. so what i want to know is what would work the best bi metal is the best material right? and also what about TPI i forget what the ones i got were but they were the only ones they had so i dont know if a different TPI would work better. thanks guys!
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Old 06-08-2016, 01:13 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Ok finally found in the old thread ray you had said get a 14-18 tpi....how does it work tho wouldnt the bigger the teeth the quicker it would cut? but maybe dull quicker?
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  #3  
Old 06-08-2016, 02:29 PM
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NorCal Nate NorCal Nate is offline
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Don't buy HF band saw blades they are garbage. Buy Lennox or Olson brand. I'm sure the Lennox are better but the local ACE hardware carries the Olson brand and they last quite a good while for me. With the HF bandsaw blades I would only be able to cut out 2 knives before they were toast.
~Nate
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Old 06-08-2016, 05:15 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Nate is right, get Lenox bi-metal blades, I think they call them Diemaster blades. They are expensive but if you use them correctly they will last a long time.

Part of using them correctly is getting the right tpi for the metal you cut. Try to cut thin stock, even 1/8" thick with a 6 tpi blade and you'll jam the saw and tear the teeth off the blade pretty easily. I said 14-18 tpi because it will work well on 1/4" and thinner metals in the sizes we normally use for blades AND it will manage with sheet metal like thin brass and such that we might use for liners. Yes, fewer teeth would work better on the thicker steel but then you would have to change blades to cut the thinner stuff or risk ruining the blade. These blades are expensive at roughly $35 each so I didn't figure you would have too many just laying around. 14-18 works well for what we normally do on a metal saw ...


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  #5  
Old 06-08-2016, 05:31 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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alright thanks guys...i got more than 2 blades out of the harbor frieght ones (the bi metal ones anyway) probilly around 7 but after 4 they deffinitly started to dull but really i just used them to the point where i was almost forcing the stock through. either way all i have is one of the cheap harbor frieeght blades left so i am going to go do a search for the lenox ones and order a couple right now thanks again!
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2016, 05:03 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Though not as good as the Lennox blades, the Milwalkee brand blades will outlast and out cut the HF junkers by quite a bit. Still, pretty much get what you pay for with saw blades of any kind.


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  #7  
Old 06-10-2016, 01:14 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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What material are you cutting and what is the power and speed of your bandsaw?

It makes a difference. Did you buy the 62" HF bandsaw? It is meant for nonferrous metals only and wood because it is too fast for steel. I don't bother with bimetal blades as my bandsaw is simply too fast and will dull the best bimetal blades rather quickly. I have worked in the metal trades most of my life and we had metal saws that we could slow down. A bimetal blade cutting steel should cut at around 200 to 400 fpm and stainless as slow as the saw will go just like you slow down your drill press to drill holes in high chromium steels. Using cutting wax is a must as well. Your portable bandsaws are slow cutting too.

Most home bandsaws are too fast for cutting steel and just overheat the blade, they are made for wood where high speed is desired. I have Bosch and Olson blades and nothing in bimetal because they cost too much for something I don't use them for. If I cut steel I use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. For cutting brass or aluminum I use a 3/8 16 tpi blade and that is all I use that blade for. The right tool for the right job. I see reviews on bandsaws that complain they won't cut straight and most likely the guy has an 1/8 blade cutting 1 inch hardwood and it won't cut straight. You need a wider blade with no more than 6 tpi for thick hardwood. I use a 3/8 by 4 tpi on hardwoods and I do mean hardwood like ironwood, which will wear out the best blades rather quickly as it has silica in it. I use a scroll saw for G10 fiberglass material as the blades are cheaper, because fiberglass tends to wear out blades too fast. I have diamond blades too for thinner steel 1/8 or thinner or short cuts in thicker steels as it is slow, but I seldom use thicker than 3/16 thick anyway and the cutoff wheel works best. Save the diamond blades for gemstones.
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Old 06-10-2016, 08:22 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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The HF saw he bought has 3 speeds: 80, 120 and 200 (or maybe 240) if memory serves ....


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  #9  
Old 06-10-2016, 08:53 AM
RedstickJP RedstickJP is offline
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I have the harbor freight metal cutting bandsaw and have for a while, still have the factory blade on it and it hasn't burned out yet, but I also have it on The slowest speed. The table isn't great, not completely flat but it works well enough. One of these days I'll buy some 1/4" plate and make a new table for it. I use it to cut everything lol.
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  #10  
Old 06-10-2016, 10:43 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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hey guys the saw i got is this one
http://www.harborfreight.com/horizon...saw-93762.html
ray was correct about the speed.....but yeh redstick as you said when i got it the blade that came with it and the HF bi metal blades lasted alot longer than what i expected since everyone was saying they were not that good so i am really curious to see how long these new ones will last
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  #11  
Old 06-10-2016, 12:29 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Red face

I wasn't aware you had their metal cutting bandsaw. I saw HF and assumed you got the inexpensive one. My mistake.
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  #12  
Old 06-11-2016, 05:58 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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I've looked at that HF saw on several posts but when I see it on their site I can't envision how it would be used vertically. I know you guys use it vertically so i assume it can be locked in a vertical position. But whst about the table? Is there a seperate table to attach or can the table shown be moved to use with the saw vertical?
I have a pretty decent Grizzly band saw so I'm experienced with wood but can't envision fron HF's site how this thing is used vertically.


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  #13  
Old 06-11-2016, 08:28 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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yeh it does lock into place and there is a separate table that bolts on fairly easilly but it is made of thin sheet metal so its not the best table but good enough to cut blanks out of stock pritty quickly
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  #14  
Old 06-11-2016, 08:36 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Grizzly makes the same saw, that's the one I have. On mine, I cut the base off just in front on the pivot and mounted it on a table I built so it takes less floor space. Then I added a sheet of heavier metal to the thin table they provide to give more support to whatever I'm cutting. It has been a good saw for 20 years and it's still going ...


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  #15  
Old 06-14-2016, 04:43 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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If you have footprint/space issues in your shop, you can always adapt a portaband saw to vertical for metal work. Hint is just get the deep-cut format. Usually a good working used one can be found for half price if you are diligent. Made mine from an old Milwaukee PaB, mounted a heavy aluminum plate for a table and fitted to a chunk of 2x6. It clamps in my vise and can be stowed in a cabinet when not needed. Been using it for close to 15 years that way. No issues other than wearing out blades.
Tip here is to make sure your adaptions allow easy blade change outs. Just got to think it through a bit.
Will post a pic if I ever think to take one.


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