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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #31  
Old 12-16-2015, 12:26 AM
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Very good info Doug, and thanks!

Question... wouldn't the 1095 also be ok if heated to non-magnetic? Amoungst all the reference pages I'm reading is http://www.engnath.com/manframe.htm which kinda speaks highly of 1095, hence my questions there. I'll look tomorrow in my search and see if I can find some 80CrV2 also. Thanks for that tip!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Lester View Post
Vertical dipping may prevent warping if done correctly. Either up and down or back and forth like you are trying to cut through the oil. No sideways movement. I have a roasting pan if I ever want to try edge quenching again. Mostly I use a turkey fryer for quenching.

Another steel that you might try, if Also has it in stock, is 80CrV2. From what I understand you won't be able to tell it from regular 1080.

As far as if that forge is getting hot enough to forge with see if it will get the steel hot enough that it will become non-magnetic. That's what you will need for heat treating and will be minimal for forging one of the more simple steels like that ones that have been mentioned to you.

I would avoid the 1095 because you don't have the heat control necessary to get reliable results with it. Also be aware that not all 1095 is created equal and some of it doesn't have a good reputation with all smiths on these boards.

Doug


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  #32  
Old 12-16-2015, 01:30 AM
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I have a long, thought out post that I will present ma?ana!

In the meantime, a HUGE thanks to all who have contributed to this thread!

While there are many things I have experience in, this one is new... metallurgy.

You guys are GREAT and I thank you sooooo much for the responses thus far!

Tomorrows post will bring some new ideas (after I review it again, it's past my cocktail hour, lol).

I can not emphasize how serious I am about this industry/trade/craft!

I bid you all a fine evening (what's left of it) and have a lengthy post coming tomorrow!

Chris


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  #33  
Old 12-16-2015, 05:41 AM
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What Doug said. 1095 is the most difficult of the simple 10XX series carbon steels to learn. Stick with the easier stuff and get a good solid understanding and practice under your belt. Makes the game so much more enjoyable and easier as you learn more advanced skills.
Need to keep it fun.


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  #34  
Old 12-16-2015, 09:23 AM
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Ditto Doug on the 1095. In addition to the issues he mentioned, 1095 should also have a fast quench oil. This means something like Parks 50 or other professional oil, not canola or some such ...


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  #35  
Old 12-16-2015, 10:51 AM
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Just checked the new jersey steel baron and they're definitely not out of 1084.


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  #36  
Old 12-16-2015, 11:32 AM
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They are out of the 1.5 in I was looking for. I just checked and they do have 2"


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  #37  
Old 12-16-2015, 01:57 PM
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Oh ok, didn't realize you were looking for a specific size, my bad. Check out texas knife supply if you want small quantities of 1080 too.


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  #38  
Old 12-16-2015, 07:37 PM
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Oh ok, didn't realize you were looking for a specific size, my bad. Check out texas knife supply if you want small quantities of 1080 too.
Thanks for the additional source! I'll order 3, 3 ft pieces tomorrow morn of that... as good a price as I've seen on small quantity too!

Have a photo of my third knife. Had to buy camera today so I can ... well, you know! Just finished it except for final polish. And, it's not hardened at all. 440C stock annealed flat bar. I went a head and put it together anyhow just to see what new I could try and how it would look. This one has my first finger guard.

Has a gold hue to it in the photo, but that's just the light in here. Zebrawood scales made from 6"X3/4" 4ft plank I have.

All comment good or bad appreciated. I plan on making a business out of this when I get rolling, so if you have a critique, don't worry about me gettin' butt hurt!

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...ves/knife3.jpg


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  #39  
Old 12-16-2015, 08:07 PM
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Looks good, so good its almost a waste you didn't get it heat treated. Is that 100% ground to shape by you?


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  #40  
Old 12-16-2015, 08:37 PM
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That looks terrific for a 3rd knife! Hopefully, you are doing some serious testing along the way to assure yourself that it is, in fact, as terrific as it looks. This is especially important if you're thinking of making a business out of this as it takes very little to trash a reputation.

Since you bought a camera and you realize that it is your incandescent lights that are causing that gold color you may want to consider building yourself a light box. This doesn't have to be a big deal but it helps your knife pictures look as good as possible. Mine is just a large cardboard box with the top and part of the sides cut away and replaced with a translucent white garbage bag which acts as a diffuser. There are some daylight temperature lights mounted above the diffuser. Some free photo manipulation software off the internet is also useful for cropping and sizing the pictures. On the internet, you are only as good as your pictures ...


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  #41  
Old 12-16-2015, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter10139 View Post
Looks good, so good its almost a waste you didn't get it heat treated. Is that 100% ground to shape by you?
Yes, from flat stock


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  #42  
Old 12-16-2015, 08:51 PM
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To all:

I have mentioned once, maybe twice, stevespages.com that I now own/operate. It is primarily a shooting/re-loading (what I do) page that has a massive amount of traffic from around the world! November yielded 2.7 million visits!
http://stevespages.com/stats/

Part of my plan for marketing is to utilize this site. Steve used to sell knives there as a way to help supplement income and cover the cost of the site. I am ENTRENCHED in the reloading community forums and am the reloading guru on a couple of them. The reloading/shooting community is chock full of knife guys and I'm in the thick of them now and even prior to aquiring stevespage.com, have been very active and contributing to these fora.

When I took over the site last June after Steve passed, I pulled the (commercial) knives for sale page as I had no interest in buying Shrades or Bucks and retailing them for $5 over cost. So here we sit. I have a knife page back up indicating that we will be selling QUALITY knives at just more than you can buy commercial "fair quality" knives at. Bear in mind, part of this statement is marketing, part is a delay so I can come up to speed in the knife making biz. So first, THANKS (whew!) to all that are commenting/helping on this thread as it wanders a bit!
Second, anyone interested in simple link exchange on a website with this many visitors? While I am not ready for that yet (as I need to be able to create quality first!!! and thanks to you all!) it won't be long. I would not consider asking a quality knife maker for a link to his page if I'm turning out junk! But I do have the marketing experience and resources to bring the traffic!

So, I'm a month or two away from upping my price and quality. I only have one listed right now and it is gone. Need to update the page, but have been borrowing neighbors cam to get pics. Cam order in the morning!

Here is the current knives for sale page. http://stevespages.com/knives.htm

Anyway, wait a month or two, and I will be mentioning this again! I would like to see us ALL so busy making, that it's almost a sideline to ship!!!

OK, end soapbox! Sidenote... I would NOT even request a quality knife maker to link to my knife page unless he had seen/touched/handled my work! I will be asking A LOT of questions as this is planned to be my retirement career and I MUST be GOOD at it for that to happen! I will ship a sample ( to be returned) to anyone interested in this proposal

Call me directly at 602-606-7389 for questions or interest in this concept!

Chris


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  #43  
Old 12-16-2015, 09:11 PM
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I want to re-iterate, I am still 4 to 8 weeks from this becoming live. I must find an affordable source here for HTing SS... that will come in the end of January as our local guild fires (pun) back up for 2016. They do batches to get the cost break.

I also have to be comfortable with the recommended 1084 of which I have not yet had the opportunity to work with.
But I will say this... I'm a danged sponge!!! I'm soaking this stuff ('nother pun on soak, lol) up as fast as I find it. That's
why I finished the above example with no HT. If I can't work on HTing final products I better be practising details.

Always move forward, never back. A side step or two is OK, but keep the momentum going! Energy!


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  #44  
Old 12-16-2015, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post
That looks terrific for a 3rd knife! Hopefully, you are doing some serious testing along the way to assure yourself that it is, in fact, as terrific as it looks. This is especially important if you're thinking of making a business out of this as it takes very little to trash a reputation.

Since you bought a camera and you realize that it is your incandescent lights that are causing that gold color you may want to consider building yourself a light box. This doesn't have to be a big deal but it helps your knife pictures look as good as possible. Mine is just a large cardboard box with the top and part of the sides cut away and replaced with a translucent white garbage bag which acts as a diffuser. There are some daylight temperature lights mounted above the diffuser. Some free photo manipulation software off the internet is also useful for cropping and sizing the pictures. On the internet, you are only as good as your pictures ...
I gotta say though... the gold hue looks pretty cool!


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  #45  
Old 12-16-2015, 09:25 PM
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QUOTE: I gotta say though... the gold hue looks pretty cool!

Maybe, maybe not to a customer who wants to know what will be in the box when he opens it ...


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