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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #16  
Old 04-04-2015, 11:37 PM
RedstickJP RedstickJP is offline
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Ok I need some help. Tried to test my burner (not in forge) and it lights and burns well, but then stops burning as soon as I remove the flame from the end of the burner. Tried using my propane torch and a paper cigar, both times when I remove my "lighter" the burner stops burning. I tried playing with the pressure and fuel feed with no effect. Could I be getting too much air into the burner? I modeled my burner off of ray's tutorial.
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  #17  
Old 04-05-2015, 10:00 AM
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All of this takes place with the burner outside the forge? Have you tried it with the burner inside the forge body? Most burners work very poorly outside of a forge body and the Dirt Simple burner hardly works at all that way.

Other than that, you might be getting too much or too little fuel. Air isn't a problem with that burner since the air only has one setting, its just a matter of matching the fuel to the air you have. The air is controlled by the size of the burner tube and the size of the venturi. The speed of thew fuel going into the burner is what pulls the air into the burner. If you have about 10 psi feeding through a hole about the size of a number 54 drill or smaller you should be getting about the right speed and amount of fuel. But, out in the open you might be able to maintain a tiny flame on the end of the burner if you slowed down the gas feed but a bigger flame will just blow itself out. The forge body holds the gas close enough to the tip for it to continue burning, then the body heats up and the hot body acts like a glow plug to help ignite more gas and things get hotter and hotter ...


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  #18  
Old 04-05-2015, 04:48 PM
RedstickJP RedstickJP is offline
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You were 100% right. As soon as I put it in the forge it worked like a champ. Little sputtering here and there, but i didn't take the time to play with the psi or amount of
Fuel because I noticed some mortar from yesterday was still a little soft and didn't wanna get things too hot....I don't like pieces of brick to pop and fly out of a hot forge
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  #19  
Old 04-05-2015, 08:43 PM
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Out side the forge you need a flare or nozzle the controls the change in side pressure as the air/gas mixture exits the straight pipe. That's why it doesn't work outside the forge. The interior of the forge sides at the entry port provides this control (although crudely). A well shaped flare will greatly improve performance. There is a ratio that works best in conjunction with fuel amount, pressure, and available air that provide optimum performance. Not so simple science, but makes a difference.

Run your forge a while and see how it does, you are probably ok and within operable ranges.


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  #20  
Old 04-06-2015, 07:07 PM
RedstickJP RedstickJP is offline
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Ok, I got the forge up and running today, did the heating and quenching of my blade, but I hit a problem. I measured poorly and I think my burner is too far back, I dont think I was able to get the entire blade heated through (I think I missed about 1/2" - 3/4" on the handle side). So I have two questions now, 1) since I probably didnt get the HT right, can I re treat the blade or is it scrap, and 2) should I try and move the burner toward the front and plug the old hole, or drill/chisel a pass though back door?

I noticed that only a small area around the burner was getting hot (i'm assuming because the opening isnt a circle since i used brick) but it seemed to heat the blade well without causing any area to heat too fast compared to the other areas. And Ray, I got your video today so I'm watching it now. I hope I can make some modifications to let my current forge work...I really don't have the money right now to build a new one. Any help would be great.

Jesse
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  #21  
Old 04-06-2015, 07:21 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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If all you missed was an inch of the handle that's no big deal. Some makers prefer to leave the entire handle untreated anyway.

Its not so much how fast the blade can be heated as it is how evenly it can be heated. You don't want to get the thick parts to the right temp only to have the thin sections over heat. Yes, the shape of the interior will affect that but I'm guessing that the reason you have a hot spot is more about using brick since brick is slow to heat up. If you run the forge wide open for an hour or so you might get all the brick heated more or less evenly. Maybe. You can put a piece of pipe inside the forge and put the blade inside the pipe. That way, the burner cannot heat any part of the blade directly and the blade can heat more evenly.

As for the expense of rebuilding the forge, you already have a burner. All you need is a metal tube (watch what I do with the piece of sheet metal on the video) and about $15 worth of inswool. That plus the bricks you already have would get the job done.

The blade's not ruined and can be re-HTed if you decide it needs it....


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  #22  
Old 04-06-2015, 08:08 PM
RedstickJP RedstickJP is offline
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Just finished the video and see what you mean. I think a forge re-do is in order. And I missed about 3/4" of the blade, didn't get the handle at all. I probably could modify this one to work (and may in the future for fun) but I think my best bet is to just make a new forge. I may take this one and lay it on its butt, and widen the opening for use as a foundry to melt things. I'm gonna have to show the old lady your video so she
Can see the squirrels lol
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  #23  
Old 04-10-2015, 07:23 PM
RedstickJP RedstickJP is offline
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completed my forge re-do. went with the simple metal tube with inswool/salanite. I didn't have a chance to take pics before work but will post some later if i can. Can't wait to fire it up.
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  #24  
Old 04-14-2015, 04:45 PM
RedstickJP RedstickJP is offline
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Forge Re-Do

I finished the forge re-do (2nd forge) and it works great....after hardening my test blade I made a set of long tongs to keep from burning my hand again....vice grips kept my hand too close lol...too bad I didnt make the tongs first.
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  #25  
Old 04-14-2015, 05:49 PM
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Interesting set of tongs! Your forge stand appears to be made of wood. If the wood is in direct contact with the forge body it will eventually ignite, just a matter of time....


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  #26  
Old 04-14-2015, 09:10 PM
RedstickJP RedstickJP is offline
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yah, I made it out of some scrap wood I had laying around. I plan on making a fire-resistant stand in the future. Tongs are def interesting. Found a pair of pliers on clearance, stripped the coating off of the handles (the store didn't mind since I was buying them anyway), then bought some square tubing that was a tight fit. Heated the tubing red hot, jamed the pliers in and hammered them on my anvil to bend the tubing to the contour of the handle so it cant slide off. I also ground down the jaws to be able to firmly grab the knife blanks. Finally got my test blade heat treated and cleaned up, just glued the scales on, will finish it out tomorrow so I can start testing.
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  #27  
Old 04-14-2015, 10:05 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Pretty creative with the tongs.

You saw my forge video so you saw the first little forge I built. I threw it together pretty quickly with the forge body just barely sitting on the edges of a couple of fire bricks. This left an air gap of less than a half inch between the bottom of the forge and the wood picnic table everything was set upon. Small burner, small forge all just merrily percolating along while I fumbled around with the camera. It didn't take long for enough heat to soak the brick floor in the forge and start heating the wood. In very little time there was a *foom!* sound as the table ignited. Shortly thereafter there was an "Oh, @#$%^!!" sound as I shut off the burner and grabbed one of several fire extinguishers I keep around just in case somebody does something really stupid. Sadly, there wasn't anyone else around that I could blame this on, just me.

The important thing I'm saying here is that the table wasn't just scorched a little - it freakin' went off like a small bomb. The wood ignited at least a quarter inch into the table top and for the full length of the forge. Instant charcoal. I believe you can see some metal sheeting under the forge in the video - that isn't as much for safety as it is to hide my boo-boo. Make sure you don't get caught that way ...


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  #28  
Old 04-15-2015, 06:29 AM
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Do a little research on blacksmiting tools and you should be able to find plenty of quick/easy tong tutorials. Really not anywhere near as hard as you'd think.
Also, if near a HF, you can get a pair of long handled needle nose pliers for around $12 - one straight and one bent. These can be easily modified for different uses, but are also real handy just as they are.

Ray pretty much said it all on the wood. No need to increase your mishap potential.....plenty of other things to worry about in this game.


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