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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 09-04-2016, 03:20 PM
Donsylvest Donsylvest is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
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Bandsaw choice?

I have $500 to spend on saw for cutting out blanks. Am looking at dewalt with swag table to mount it. Does anyone have any other recommendations?
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2016, 03:31 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Location: putnam county NY ....about 45 mins north of new york city
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it may not be the best bandsaw in the world but I have one from harbor freight and it cuts steel stock no problem I have found that you need the right blades if you want it to last longer than one or 2 blanks but that would go for ANY band saw you get I would think the blades make the biggest difference I was using the lenox diemaster skip tooth they cut like butter but didn't last long a few people recently pointed out to me that the skip tooth wasn't the best so I got the regular 14-18 tpi lenox diemaster the links below are for the saw I have and the blades the saw is half of what you expected to spend...put the rest toward good blades
SAW
http://www.harborfreight.com/horizon...saw-93762.html

BLADES
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02004695
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2016, 04:15 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Also the bi-metal blades for steel too. And in my many years since the 70's of working in the metal trades. You get what you pay for when it comes to blades. You may not be able to afford a $2000 bandsaw, so you have to skimp there, but don't skimp on the blades.
Do what I did when I bought my little table top band saw, research the blades and the variety you can get. My saw isn't slow enough to cut steel, but is great on wood and brass. Look up videos on Youtube on fine tuning your saw, it's worth it.
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  #4  
Old 09-04-2016, 06:55 PM
Donsylvest Donsylvest is offline
 
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Thanks guys

I tend to over think some of this.
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  #5  
Old 09-04-2016, 07:55 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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take a look at those links its a very simple and good option (trust me I over think everything) the link to the blades are bi metal blades wich as jim said is what you want they are the best I have found. also when I was looking for a saw there was really nothing that was any different between that one and ones for 500$ like I said as long as you put good bi metal blades on it that saw will cut like butter. also piece of advice don't put a lot of pressure on what your cutting it will wear out ANY blade quickly if you do that just light pressure and let the saw do the work
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  #6  
Old 09-04-2016, 08:03 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Oh and I might add for a bandsaw use a good cutting wax or oil, preferably wax. Wax comes in tubes and would last for you or I like forever. I also brush Tap Magic onto the top of my brass or aluminum, not onto the blade. Just makes sure to use a cutting wax or oil. WD-40 is better than nothing, but it can also cause your blades to slip on the wheels, not to mention just making a mess. You do not want too much oil on a bandsaw. Overthink that for a minute LOL.

Last edited by jimmontg; 09-04-2016 at 08:04 PM. Reason: Clarification
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  #7  
Old 09-05-2016, 09:24 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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JIM what is the best wax you have found? where do you get it? I have not been using wax some wd 40 and twice I used a little bit of 3 in 1 oil as I ran out of wd 40 but your right it can make a mess....I finally got the right type of blades but at $30+ I want to make them last as long as possible....
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  #8  
Old 09-06-2016, 08:29 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Sorry Dave for not getting back sooner.

The stuff we used at work was CRL Lubricant and we had 3 manual band saws that had to have wax put on them and one big giant auto band saw that used a water moly mix. Those saws were used daily for hours and the tubes lasted a long time (like a year+). Try an industrial supply like Grainger or Amazon. The stuff is like 16$ a tube, but you'll never have to buy another one. You can use something like a tapping wax or cutting oil like tap magic. Olson's saw blades sells a small tube of wax for $6 on Amazon. If you use Tap Magic just brush it onto the surface along your scribe line.

Look for a Grainger Industrial Supply near you, they have one here or a company called MSC. but MSC is expensive and charge shipping to their own distribution center, Amazon would be cheaper.

There is a Grainger's near you in Elmsford, near Tarrytown. Branch #547 on highway 9A, 505 Saw Mill River rd. Elmsford NY, 10523. Grainger doesn't charge you shipping if you call them and order for delivery to their distribution center, but will charge if you order online. 800-472-4643. They will have Tap Magic in stock at all times if they are like mine. They have sanding belts and carbide drill bits of every size like number 30 drills for 1/8" clearance. You have to be precise on their web site like "Jobber length carbide tipped drill bits". or "abrasives, 2x72 sanding belts". Makes getting around easier if you know the precise name. They have thousands upon thousands of stuff. Use "tapping wax" to search for it. Also try Lowes they have a tapping fluid called Oatey for $5 they also have Ultra Lube Drilling and Tapping Fluid for over $200, but seriously. Home Depot has it for $10 in 2oz. size, it's supposed to be a super lube cutting fluid. Would spread it on my scribe line with my finger at those prices or even mix with your other oil just keep it on top of the metal being cut. Wax is better, but the oil is easier to get, cheapest on wax is Amazon.

I use Tap Magic because I do not cut steel with a saw, but I also use it for drilling and tapping. I use a cutting disc on my angle grinder. For me and my experience it's easier, just like I used the angle grinder to do the initial grinding on a double edged Arkansas toothpick that was overall 19" with a 11 1/2" blade. I made two blades at the same time out of 1/4" 1085. I HT them in a forge with most of the hidden tang sticking out. I haven't put a handle on or blued the 2nd blade yet.

Last edited by jimmontg; 09-06-2016 at 08:49 AM.
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  #9  
Old 09-06-2016, 09:42 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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thanks jim ill deffinitly contanct grainger's elmsford and tarrytown is very close I know exactly where 9a and saw mill meet...never knew they exsisted there. there used to be a HUGE GM chevy plant in tarry town where my father worked for 40+ years by the time I was a kid he was a floor manager and he had a golf cart to drive around on the place was so big I have soo many memories riding around on that golf cart with him as a kid I always found the welding robots really interesting. about 16-17 years ago they ripped the whole plac down. anyway thanks again jim I am going to do some searching for that wax now
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  #10  
Old 09-06-2016, 10:20 PM
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C Craft C Craft is offline
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Buy the best you can afford.

Then do yourself a favor and buy some Diemaster by Lenox 1/2x.025x18tpi SR blades when you have to replace the blade! They are about the best in my opinion!!

You will destroy a couple of blades before you learn, what I am about to tell you!

In my opinion lube won't help! You want the blade to last, don't:

Force the material let the blade do the cutting

Adjust the speed, to fast on the speed is equal to forcing the material

you can cut radius's BUT and here is the big but, if you cut a tight radius the blade will pick-up a warp and after a blade warps it will continue to cut. However trying to cut a straight/square cut from the time you warp a blade you will constantly have to chase the line. In other words to cut a straight/square cut you have to run the material sideways through the blade.

Always make sure your work is supported, if it binds you will A. break the blade B. chip off a tooth or two!!

Here is my set-up:




Click the thumbnail and it will open to a full pic. If there is anything I can help with give me a holler!


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With every custom knife I build I try to accomplish three things. I want that knife to look so good you just have to pick it up, feel so good in your hand you can't wait to try it, and once you use it, you never want to put it down !
If I capture those three factors in each knife I build, I am assured the knife will become a piece that is used and treasured by its owner!

C Craft

Last edited by C Craft; 09-06-2016 at 10:25 PM.
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  #11  
Old 09-07-2016, 01:48 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Approve

Be careful. Heat is your enemy and I say that using an abrasive cutting disc.
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  #12  
Old 09-07-2016, 07:22 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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CC's spot on. Although his portaband mount is a bit too sexy for me, I use basically the same kind of setup. Mine just clamps in a vise so I can use it anywhere there is a decent vise and power...like it that way. I picked up a used deep-cut Milwakee with a cut power cord for $50 and modified it. Work horse with the right blades.
Best part is the small footprint when in use and no footprint when stowed under the bench. Important in a small shop.
Also found that if you want to split scales or slice antler slabs this rig is far more accurate than my big bandsaw (wood). Only limit is the throat limits on the portaband, but thinking ahead can get you around this.


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advice, auto, band saw, bee, blades, blanks, brass, dewalt, fixed blade, forge, hidden, make, making, metal, mount, problem, recommendations, simple, steel, supply, tang, tap, wax, wheels, wood


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