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The Display Case A place to post your latest knives and creations. Let the Knife Network community see your work first!

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  #1  
Old 12-06-2019, 08:20 PM
Tex65 Tex65 is offline
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Last few

My last few. Still learning but getting things figured out. Grinds are getting better. First two attempts at bolsters. Brass was the first and the stainless was the second. As always feedback is appreciated.

Last edited by Tex65; 05-13-2020 at 06:01 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-09-2019, 10:23 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Nice looking knives.

As far as I can see, they look pretty good for a freshman knife maker. You know I almost never make a bolster. I will make a small guard, but other than that I seldom make a bolster except for cosmetics. The knife without a bolster is what I usually do. I sand the front of the handle material down to about 1.5 mm. on the forward edge. I only use a bolster if I'm using a brittle wood like ebony or recon gemstone to protect it from chipping. Each knife maker has their own preferences. Do not mistake me, there isn't anything wrong with doing a bolster. It is just a matter of preference.
Good looking knives, keep it up. BTW what kind of steel are the blades made from? Stainless 440c or 1080?
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  #3  
Old 12-09-2019, 03:10 PM
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M&J M&J is offline
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Looking good! Would be nice to see a larger pic so we can see more details. Are you marking them with your name or logo?


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  #4  
Old 12-10-2019, 08:37 AM
argel55 argel55 is offline
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Only thing I would say is that one the one with 4 small pins they are a little too close to the edge to my liking. I normally set them 3/16 in from the edge.The other ones look good.
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  #5  
Old 12-10-2019, 07:11 PM
Tex65 Tex65 is offline
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Thanks for taking a look. I知 doing the bolsters to learn how and practice. Seem to make the blade heavy. All the blades are O1. What angle do you do? Steep or more of a taper? Thanks again for taking a look and the feedback.
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  #6  
Old 12-10-2019, 07:13 PM
Tex65 Tex65 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmontg View Post
As far as I can see, they look pretty good for a freshman knife maker. You know I almost never make a bolster. I will make a small guard, but other than that I seldom make a bolster except for cosmetics. The knife without a bolster is what I usually do. I sand the front of the handle material down to about 1.5 mm. on the forward edge. I only use a bolster if I'm using a brittle wood like ebony or recon gemstone to protect it from chipping. Each knife maker has their own preferences. Do not mistake me, there isn't anything wrong with doing a bolster. It is just a matter of preference.
Good looking knives, keep it up. BTW what kind of steel are the blades made from? Stainless 440c or 1080?
The reply below was meant for you.
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  #7  
Old 12-10-2019, 07:17 PM
Tex65 Tex65 is offline
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Smile

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Originally Posted by M&J View Post
Looking good! Would be nice to see a larger pic so we can see more details. Are you marking them with your name or logo?
I値l work on the bigger picture. I知 trying to come up a logo. Thanks for the feedback. Your stuff is awesome.
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  #8  
Old 12-10-2019, 07:21 PM
Tex65 Tex65 is offline
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Originally Posted by argel55 View Post
Only thing I would say is that one the one with 4 small pins they are a little too close to the edge to my liking. I normally set them 3/16 in from the edge.The other ones look good.
Something I need to work on. Done a couple with pins close to edge all came out the same way. I do need to start paying more attention to layout. Thanks for taking a look and the feedback.
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  #9  
Old 12-11-2019, 10:06 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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On your grinds Tex?

On knife one that grind looks pretty good, not too steep and closer to the spine than the edge by a good margin. That is how I tend to grind my hunting knives, close to the spine, not doing a scandi grind.
The second knife could stand to be a little shallower, but not bad.
Now the third knife the blade isn't as wide as the other two and the grind looks a little steep and would look better at a shallower grind.

Now how thick is your steel? Reason I ask is if you're using thicker 5/32 steel you need to take your grinds almost all the way to the spine as that is pretty thick for a medium hunter like you have here. 1/8 in is what I make medium hunters from, slices better. Except for number three they are pretty nice, not too steep and maybe could be a bit shallower, but not enough to worry about.
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  #10  
Old 12-15-2019, 06:04 PM
Tex65 Tex65 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmontg View Post
On knife one that grind looks pretty good, not too steep and closer to the spine than the edge by a good margin. That is how I tend to grind my hunting knives, close to the spine, not doing a scandi grind.
The second knife could stand to be a little shallower, but not bad.
Now the third knife the blade isn't as wide as the other two and the grind looks a little steep and would look better at a shallower grind.

Now how thick is your steel? Reason I ask is if you're using thicker 5/32 steel you need to take your grinds almost all the way to the spine as that is pretty thick for a medium hunter like you have here. 1/8 in is what I make medium hunters from, slices better. Except for number three they are pretty nice, not too steep and maybe could be a bit shallower, but not enough to worry about.
I知 using 1/8 O1. Working on a couple more right now. Working on getting higher grinds.
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  #11  
Old 12-15-2019, 07:03 PM
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M&J M&J is offline
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Originally Posted by Tex65 View Post
I値l work on the bigger picture. I知 trying to come up a logo. Thanks for the feedback. Your stuff is awesome.
One suggestion to lighten the knife and provide for epoxy would be to hollow and drill the handle area. This is what I do for the full tang ones:



Thanks. The ongoing pursuit to refine and improve one's craftsmanship skills.


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  #12  
Old 12-15-2019, 07:16 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Practice makes perfect Tex. I still use a jig on hollow grinds as that is the only way I get consistent grinds with the equipment I have. I've only ever had a 2x72 was at the college in Burnsville North Carolina. I traded teaching advanced TIG welding technique for forge and trip hammer time. They had a nice jig for hollow grinding. Worked real well on my damascus. Here in New Mexico I don't have access to a forge any longer, but I have about 30 knives heat treated and just needing to be finished. I have some Nicholson files that I need to temper and grind down as well as some O1 I never got around to ht. It's 3/16th thick and originally was going to be a boar hunting knife, but the guy ended up in prison and I ground them down, but stopped after I heard what happened to him. Not too many people want to hunt wild boars with a knife, but it's a set with one big blade and two skinners. I prefer not to ht the O1 in a forge so as to get the best possible quality out of the steel, although that is how I started heat treating in a charcoal forge a long time ago. I'd ht a few knives and then cook dinner. lol
.
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  #13  
Old 09-29-2020, 01:49 PM
TrudyTurner TrudyTurner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmontg View Post
As far as I can see, they look pretty good for a freshman knife maker. You know I almost never make a bolster. I will make a small guard, but other than that I seldom make a bolster except for cosmetics.
Cosmetics need special approach. Starting from the one and finishing with the other. Anyway, if the speech is about the reliable one, you will get enough time and effect from it. And it is the best solution.

Last edited by TrudyTurner; 02-28-2021 at 02:54 PM.
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440c, a, awesome, blade, blades, bolster, bolsters, brass, ca, edge, guard, handle, handle material, knife, knives, logo, made, marking, material, sand, small, stainless, steel, what kind, wood


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