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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 02-17-2015, 11:05 PM
Karnivore Karnivore is offline
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So I developed an interest.

So here's my situation. I had recently purchased a decent Damascus knife and thought to myself, I bet I could make one of these. So, after doing the research, I have absolutely no clue as to what I am doing.

That being said I intend on starting with a few kit builds and maybe some collaboration builds, i.e., that is where I purchase a forged blade then add to it with decorative grinds etc. So my question is, since this is far more involved than my current expertise level, what tools are a must have?

I was thinking:
A belt sharpener, not a belt grinder, ($95 vs. $1800+)
A Dremel with whatever attachments would be appropriate.
I have a few hammers for gunsmithing that I already have for pins and such
A disk/belt sander combo for wood work.

So if anyone can lead me in the right direction that would be great. Let me know what else I need or should take away. I am basically going to be working out of my garage.

Thanks in advance for your help.
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  #2  
Old 02-18-2015, 12:01 AM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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Depends on what you want to do. If it's just make a knife, then the tools you'll need are minimal. I can make a functional knife from a file with a belt sander, toaster oven and torch (even that would be optional). Like everything, start small then as your skill increases so will your tooling to accommodate the ever increasing complexity of design. That being said, my shop by most standards is minimalist at best. Ray Rogers does a Newbies chat on Sunday night. Be sure to drop in and pick his brain.
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  #3  
Old 02-18-2015, 12:40 AM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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I would forget about a belt sharpener unless all you want to do is sharpen a blade. It would be better to use that money to start a saving account to buy a grinder. Also you can get a belt grinder for well under $1800. You will also need a drill press. A floor model would probably be better than a bench mounted one as they usually have lower speeds that are better for drilling hardened metal. You can also chuck up small sanding drums in them to use like a small wheel. You will go through drum sleeves rapidly, however.

The Dremel tool can be used with the proper wheel to rough cut your blanks and you can use bastard and smooth cut mill files to refine the blanks and file the bevels.

I would also suggest that you learn to make a blade using something like 1084. It's a lot less expensive than damascus bars. Heat treating is rather straight forward and a gas forge is no that difficult or expensive to build. An electric oven would be best for heat treating anything but they are a major expense. Another option is to find someone who will heat treat the blade for you.

Doug


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  #4  
Old 02-18-2015, 05:37 AM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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Don't let yourself get intemidated. This was my last knife done for Ray Rogers Sunday chat groups last KITH. It was done from a file. My tools, yard sale toaster oven, Lowes 4X36 belt sander, skill side grinder (with cutting wheel), a tool sale special drill press, oxy/ac torch and sand paper. Not exactly high tech or expensive. Probably not even $500 in the tools if you play it right.
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  #5  
Old 02-19-2015, 05:56 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Get with a local knifemaker, hobbiest or pro, and learn the basics of fabrication. The old saw that there are none around is just lazy talk. You can find a knifemaker of some skill level in just about any town in the US with a population of more than 1000. You have to do a little work to find most, they are not out there looking for you.
Then teach yourself to accomplish these basics with the tools you have or can justify to buy as a beginner. Any knife can be made with simple hand tools, patience and learned skills.
Agree with starting with a simple 1084 steel for learning. Damascus just complicates your learning curve and reduces your tool $$ fund.
The K.I.S.S. approach will save you a lot of grief and angst in the long run.
Might check into the Florida Knifemakers Association, they can direct you to a local maker. They can also help you with your learning curve. Good bunch of folks.


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Last edited by Crex; 02-19-2015 at 06:05 AM.
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  #6  
Old 02-20-2015, 07:15 AM
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ranger1 ranger1 is offline
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If you have hand tools. I would start with a disc sander. You can get a 9" at Harbor Freight around $100.00 you will use it as long as you make knives. Get the book "The $50.00 Knife Shop" . It will answer a lot of questions for you. Get a 4" side grinder $12-40 bucks . The cheap HF ones seem to work OK. You can also get grinding wheels and cut off wheels for it.
Start with simple knives, made well. Fancy file work and embellishments are great only if you have a good solid well made knife to start with. " You can dress up a pig , but its still a pig"


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  #7  
Old 02-21-2015, 01:55 PM
Karnivore Karnivore is offline
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Location: Wellington, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmccustomknives View Post
Depends on what you want to do. If it's just make a knife, then the tools you'll need are minimal. I can make a functional knife from a file with a belt sander, toaster oven and torch (even that would be optional). Like everything, start small then as your skill increases so will your tooling to accommodate the ever increasing complexity of design. That being said, my shop by most standards is minimalist at best. Ray Rogers does a Newbies chat on Sunday night. Be sure to drop in and pick his brain.
I will check out the Chat on Sunday for sure. Thanks for the advice.
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  #8  
Old 02-21-2015, 02:02 PM
Karnivore Karnivore is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Lester View Post
I would forget about a belt sharpener unless all you want to do is sharpen a blade. It would be better to use that money to start a saving account to buy a grinder. Also you can get a belt grinder for well under $1800. You will also need a drill press. A floor model would probably be better than a bench mounted one as they usually have lower speeds that are better for drilling hardened metal. You can also chuck up small sanding drums in them to use like a small wheel. You will go through drum sleeves rapidly, however.

The Dremel tool can be used with the proper wheel to rough cut your blanks and you can use bastard and smooth cut mill files to refine the blanks and file the bevels.

I would also suggest that you learn to make a blade using something like 1084. It's a lot less expensive than damascus bars. Heat treating is rather straight forward and a gas forge is no that difficult or expensive to build. An electric oven would be best for heat treating anything but they are a major expense. Another option is to find someone who will heat treat the blade for you.

Doug
I will get the sharpener just to have around, sounds like a good investment nevertheless. I can afford a belt grinder right now, its just that I am not sure I have the time to put into making knives that would warrant purchasing a grinder. I don't plan on selling them so I want to get my feet wet so to speak.

I assume I can find 1084 steel on one of the knife supply websites. I did want to ask what is the typical thickness most people look for. I done want to make a bowie with filet knife thickness lol.

Thanks for lending your time to answer.
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  #9  
Old 02-21-2015, 02:07 PM
Karnivore Karnivore is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmccustomknives View Post
Don't let yourself get intemidated. This was my last knife done for Ray Rogers Sunday chat groups last KITH. It was done from a file. My tools, yard sale toaster oven, Lowes 4X36 belt sander, skill side grinder (with cutting wheel), a tool sale special drill press, oxy/ac torch and sand paper. Not exactly high tech or expensive. Probably not even $500 in the tools if you play it right.
Nice knife btw. So a smaller sander will work then. I keep reading on the forums that they produce too much heat and make the blade brittle. Also, for heat treating lets say 1084 steel, could I use my infrared grill to fire it up, it typically gets up to 1100deg on high.

Thanks for the info. Will work it out.
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  #10  
Old 02-21-2015, 02:09 PM
Karnivore Karnivore is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crex View Post
Get with a local knifemaker, hobbiest or pro, and learn the basics of fabrication. The old saw that there are none around is just lazy talk. You can find a knifemaker of some skill level in just about any town in the US with a population of more than 1000. You have to do a little work to find most, they are not out there looking for you.
Then teach yourself to accomplish these basics with the tools you have or can justify to buy as a beginner. Any knife can be made with simple hand tools, patience and learned skills.
Agree with starting with a simple 1084 steel for learning. Damascus just complicates your learning curve and reduces your tool $$ fund.
The K.I.S.S. approach will save you a lot of grief and angst in the long run.
Might check into the Florida Knifemakers Association, they can direct you to a local maker. They can also help you with your learning curve. Good bunch of folks.
I did contact the FKA and am awaiting a response. Supposedly there is someone not but 15 minutes from me and left him a message. Thanks for the advice.
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  #11  
Old 02-21-2015, 02:35 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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For most knives 3/16" will cover most bases, maybe even 1/8". You could probably want to go down to 1/16" for something like a boning knife.

Doug


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  #12  
Old 02-21-2015, 02:50 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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You probably won't find 1084 at most of the knife supply places but if you will look at the Sticky threads at the top of the forum you will find a list of the places where 1084 can be found. Once you have it your infared thing at 1100 F won't be hot enough, you'll need at least a torch or a small forge. If you need help with building a forge we have you covered.

As Doug said, 1/8 or 3/16 thickness is plenty. Your first few knives should be no more than 4" blades like hunters or utility knives. Short blades are easier to grind, less material cost, simpler to heat treat, and generally just faster to make and finish. This is important because you want to test those first few knives so hard you will likely destroy them. At least a couple need to be intentionally broken so you can see the grain structure of the steel which is a clue to how well the heat treatment worked. Unless you have some really good beginner's luck you can pretty well expect the heat treatment will be less than adequate the first few times you try it ...


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