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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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cutting 1095 steel
Curious if there is a jigsaw blade that will sufficiently cut through 1095 steel. My tool options are limited and I'm not likely to own a cutting torch any time soon.
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#2
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Very doubtful. You may look into getting a portable metal cutting bandsaw and building or buying a stand for it. Or you could look into one of the more inexpensive horizontal/upright metal band saws. If you just have to rough your outline on a bar of steel you can also use an angle grinder and nip away the steel close to the outline then grind or file to the outline. Then there is allways the hacksaw
A wood cutting bandsaw with a bimetal blade will not do the job for you. They turn way too fast for use on ferrous metal. Even those that advertise that they can cut metal just have a second setting on the pulley the will allow it to cut non-ferrous metal such as brass or aluminum. Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#3
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Since speed seems to be the biggest diff in bandsaw purposes what should I be looking for? Thanks in advance
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#4
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I've found over the years that a good quality port-a-band and side grinder with a cut off disc are my go-to's. Handy fast and versatile.
(of course I don't do much cut out work these days, just heat and hammer) __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#5
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I don't have a port- a- band, so the only thing I can say about them is that pretty much everyone I've heard who has one loves it.
Most of my cutting is done with a angle grinder and cutoff discs. It's one of those tools that once you get used to using it, you tend to reach for it a lot. |
#6
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Ihoptdk,
Speed is the biggest difference but not the only difference. Wood saws run about 3000 fpm while metal saws are mostly less than 200fpm. But, wood saws have rubber coated wheels and metal saws have plain steel. Manufacturers intentionally size their saws so that commercially available blades for wood saws won't fit metal saws and vice versa. So, what you should be looking for is a metal cutting bandsaw if you want to cut metal. There are many available in the $200 price range. A lot of guys make do with a smaller Porta-Band saw held in a vice. For what it's worth, metal saws are usually cheaper than wood saws, at least at the low end of the scale .... |
#7
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I like the 3" variable, high speed air cutters sold at Harbor Freight. You must be patient and take your time, but you can just about rough cut any design desired. Good luck.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-...ter-47077.html __________________ Russ |
#8
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I use a Bosch 1587avs jigsaw with Bosch T123x progressor blades to cut all my 1095 in the annealed state, never after hardening. I have found of all the blades I have used in the past that these last the longest and cut the nicest, just go very light on the trigger so you keep the speed of the blade slow or you risk overheating and dulling the blade. In my shop I bulk cut all my blanks per batch at one time and the progressors have always made it through a complete 36"x5/32" bar of 1095 and then some without needing changed. If you already have a jigsaw, this might be a more cost effective way of cutting 1095 over buying a bandsaw for the time being, as all you would need are the blades and you can get them for about $4-5 for 3 of them. Personally the more I use my jigsaw the more I like it for cutting out blanks. I once had a bandsaw blade jump the guide wheels on me and it hit the cover with enough force to violently throw it open at me. Ever since I have been quite leery of the ol bandsaw, especially when it is my body standing in front of the thing garnished with the knowledge that anything can and eventually very well may happen.
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blade, brass, knife |
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