Almost finished with these knives. Help

[clivehamilton77]

So I made 10 identical knives for a friend. Sorry I dont have any better pictures, but on the actual bevel there a way lines that look like i was grinding at an uneven angle. Is anyone familiar with this and if so how to fix it?

The blades are from 1/8" 1095. They were sent to Peters for HT. The handles are all Micarta linen based except the Ivory one being paper and the Olive Drab one being canvas.

The Ivory paper based was a PITA to get clean and it still needs cleaning. I need to finish cleaning up and sanding these blades but wanted to post what I have gotten done so far.

The handles are differing sizes as requested from my friend.

Also, any criticism of these knives so that I may learn. This is my "fourth" knife to make and I really need to improve on my grind. Any help is greatly appreciated. Many thanks.


EDIT:

Sorry I forgot to add that two of my blades I stupidly forgot to drill pin holes before HT. Are there any bits that will get through hardened steel or will I have to soften that handle with a torch?

[cbsmith111]

The pictures aren't showing up for me. I believe you should be able to use a solid carbide bit to drill the holes if you watch what you're doing.

[clivehamilton77]

Thanks for the info CB. I was trying to think of carbide, but the word Cobalt kept coming up in my head and i figured that was wrong. Also, I attached the photos now so see if that works. Thanks again

[Ray Rogers]

As best I can see the grind lines it looks like you need more practice, that's all. But, if the sides of the blade were not flat before you started the grind then it will be very, very hard to get straight grind lines.

To drill hardened steel get a straight flute carbide drill. The straight flute drills cost more than the carbide spade drills but they are not limited to how deep they will drill as are the spade drills and they are available in every possible size ( the spade drills are only in a few common sizes). Any machine supply place would have these or they can be ordered from MSC, McMaster-Carr, or Enco. Without a carbide drill, you'll need to soften the tang.

For hardened steel you want carbide, for most everything else we do you want cobalt.....

[clivehamilton77]

Awesome Ray! As awlays this place pulls through. I appreciate everyones advice. And Ray, by "not flat before started grind" due you mean precision ground stock? I do need much more practice, but hopefully some filing and hand sanding will clean these up.

[Ray Rogers]

It doesn't have to be precision ground but if there's any significant waviness, dents, lumps or curves (warp) to the knife when you start grinding things will be more difficult than they have to be. Again, I don't know for sure what state your blades were in when you ground them and it may be nothing more than the need for more practice.

An additional thought: if you aren't grinding with fresh, sharp belts when you establish those grind lines they do tend to wander. Sharp belts cut straighter because you can use less force. If you push harder trying to get a dull belt to define that grind line it's unlikely to be straight ...

[clivehamilton77]

Originally Posted by Ray Rogers

It doesn't have to be precision ground but if there's any significant waviness, dents, lumps or curves (warp) to the knife when you start grinding things will be more difficult than they have to be. Again, I don't know for sure what state your blades were in when you ground them and it may be nothing more than the need for more practice.

An additional thought: if you aren't grinding with fresh, sharp belts when you establish those grind lines they do tend to wander. Sharp belts cut straighter because you can use less force. If you push harder trying to get a dull belt to define that grind line it's unlikely to be straight ...

I think you hit the nail on the head Ray when you said if you push too hard on a dull belt. That's probably what im doing. Takes a long time for TruGrit to ship down here. I definitely need more practice. In fact I found a local blacksmith guild that I spoke to and one of its members is willing to help me with my grinds. So hopefully after a few courses Ill be getting better.
Thanks for your help Ray and everyone else.

[clivehamilton77]

Ray, would this be one you are talking about?

Solid:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CHI...UF5?Pid=search

Carbide tipped:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/B-A...JC8?Pid=search

EDIT:

Just found where it says Carbide tipped is the way to go.