damascus first-timer help

[dbalfa]

I am not making damascus but using some for stock-removal for the first time.
I purchased a billet and now have gotten three blades rough ground to 60g. I figured now is a good time to get some advice before I screw anything up:

1: to what grit should I finish the blades prior to HT?

2: the maker supplied HT guide, which I'm sure is sufficient. However, any advice is appreciated on that part. It is Alabama Damascus random billet, .170 thick. I have a digital electric furnace and was planning to use the mineral oil mixture I use for 01 to quench. Sound good?

3: these will be "using" blades so what would be the best temper regimen?

4: I am sure you etch after HT, also assume you etch after handle attachment- correct? - see #5

5: how does one get the damascus pattern to show on the tang between slabs? I finish my slabs after they are permanantly attached to the knife - that proves problematic as far as I can figure it.

6: how / when do you apply the electrical etched maker's mark?

7: Is it "ethical" to do that on a purchased billet blade? I have no way to credit the maker of the billet otherwise. I would of course note the maker in any sale advertisement. Is anything else warrented?

Thank you gentlemen!

[Ray Rogers]

1. Same as you would for a plain carbon steel blade. Most of the finish work is done after HT so 220 to 400 before HT should be plenty. You don't have to do all 3 blades at once so experiment and finish one blade before starting another. That way, the third knife should be better than the first. If you do all of them together they will all be the same and not likely the best you can do.

2. That should work. Generally, HT according to whatever steel is the largest percentage in the billet.

3. Again, same as plain carbon. Usually about Rc 58 or 59 depemding on the steel and the intended usage, at least two tempers of one hour each but no more than three.

4. No, etch before the handle is attached, then tape it up until the knife is completed.

5. I avoid that by never making full tang knives. But, when I did, shape the handle and finish it, then use a cotton swab to apply etchant to the tang. Mask off the handle material if the etchant might damage it. Learn from this experience and never do it again.

6. Etch as usual after the blade has been etched to your satisfaction. There are special etchants for black oxide and special techniques that can help but after trying them I mostly just etch my mark the same as on any carbon blade. Sometimes it's easy to read, sometimes not. It depends on how the pattern etch was done to a large extent.

7. Yes. It's your knife and your blade same as if you made it from 1095. Somebody made the 1095 too. It is proper to tell a buyer who made the da,ascus just as you could tell them what company made the 1095 if they cared ......

[SVanderkolff]

Not bad Ray. I was answering the same question in another thread and had the same answers. Funny how that works.
Steve

[dbalfa]

Thank you gentlemen, I shall take your advice and sallie forth with much vigor!

[ranger1]

Dennis you gotta post some pics when its done.

[dbalfa]

It was an interesting journey - I learned a few things:
1. as Ray suggested - I'll never do a full tang damascus again

2. I'll never mix osage orange wood with anything on a handle - that dang yellow stuff gets into any and everything

3. never open the foil seal of the ferric chloride bottle with your toting folder - even if it is S30V - it will get stained

However - I did enjoy the process overall, love the way the blades turned out and I will be getting some more Alabama Damascus - great stuff Brad Vice

All the knives are flat-ground, SS fittings

The first knife is cocobola "Boot", 6 1/2 oal, 2 5/8 tth

Second is bocote "Swerve", 6 3/4" oal, 2 7/8" tip to handle

Third is the infamous osage and sambar stag "Hunter", 10" oal, 5 3/8" tth

All thoughts are welcome

[Ray Rogers]

Nice stuff! Just think how much nicer it would be if you were making your own damascus....hehehehe.......

[ranger1]

Great job. I really like #1

[Doug Lester]

Great looking knives. The one with the Osage in the handle looks good and the wood seems to be darkening nicely. Reading your original post about etching the tang reminds me of a maker who got translucent buffalo horn slabs and allowed the etched steel to show through it. It actually looked kind of neat. I'm trying to remember who the maker was but I'm not sure anymore.

Doug Lester

[Pierre]

Great looking knives!

I was really hoping to see how you finished the full tang damascus... I have a vision of etching the whole blade, then flat finishing the area under the tang, then mounting the handles... Not sure if it would work, and was hoping you were gonna show me one way or the other...

None the less - a very nice job! Thanks for sharing!

[dbalfa]

Pierre - as to how I did it, I used the q-tip method of swabbing. I taped the scales off with electrical tape. I let the etchant work then sprayed it off with acetone, then windex. The tangs took a nice etch but not as deep as the blades. I got several good comments on them on a gun show this weekend.

Sold 4 knives but just not these.....there on the website though

[dbalfa]

AND ...Thank you gentlement for all the kind comments and for your help!