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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Liner material
What do you guys use to get it the same rough shape as the scales? I tried to put it on the grinder but it seemed to burn(using the 2x42) and the papery outside stuff just made a mess.
Thanks ~Nate |
#2
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Scissors. Once you glue it up with the rest of the handle the whole thing can be sanded to the finished shape ...
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#3
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Keep sanding Nate. Drill holes, rough shape, then hand sand on a flat plate.
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#4
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I guess my thinking was that the front part needed to be exact since once its glued there is no going back. So Ray your saying glue it to the scales before you glue to the blade, or all at the same time?
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#5
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I drill the bolt holes in the scales and the liners, then use the bolts (or pins) to assemble the handle without the blade in the way. Shape and polish the front of the handle this way, then attach and glue the handle and the liners to the knife. After the glue sets, finish shaping the rest of the handle.
BTW, I never try to glue the liner to the scale or to the tang separately. For me, all at once has worked better. I know other guys who use other methods but all at once seems simpler and more likely to get everything flat to my way of thinking ... |
#6
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I do exactly as Ray does. Usually when I drill the holes the liner has a bulge around the hole. That's y I flat sand em.
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#7
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Nick,
Put a piece of scrap wood behind the liner when you drill and use a sharp drill. That should give you a hole that is clean enough to not need sanding... |
#8
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Probably the bit. I dunno why I don't use a different one. I have about a hundred but use the same 4 all the time.
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#9
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Get a set of brad point bits and use exclusively for your handle material - no metals. They will stay sharp longer and cut cleaner holes.
__________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#10
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Brad point bits eh? Ill have to check them out Crex.
Thanks for the help guys! ~Nate |
#11
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I like to glue the liner material to the scale first but when I clamp I use a piece of flat metal against the liner (with wax paper so it doesn't get glued to the metal) to make sure it is flat against the scale. Once it sets over night I cut the scales set over night I rough cut them out on my wood band saw. Then I finish the end towards the blade if there is no bolster and if there is a bolster I square it up and make sure it is a nice tight gapless fit. Then I drill the pin holes. I even drill all of the "epoxy" holes into the scales just deep enough to go through the liners to give it some extra hold. I can't see it having any negative effect on it and I feel it is a better bond. Once the holes are done I put a fresh piece of sand paper on a flat board and clean the surface of the liner, clean and it is ready for final gluing. This has been working great for me but there is definitely more than one way to skin a cat.
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#12
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The brad points are made especially for woods and soft materials that are similar. They have a centering spur to eliminate wandering and many have cutting wings on the outside edges of the bit to cut clean holes. Only problem is they don't come in step sizes, only ones I've been able to find are fractional.
I set my liners pretty much the way Icho does most of the time and get very clean and even seams. I also dye my epoxy to match the liner color. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
Tags |
assemble, back, bee, blade, drill, epoxy, flat, glue, grinder, hand, handle, handle material, knife, made, material, materials, pins, polish, sand, scales, sharp, tang, wood, woods |
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