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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 07-08-2009, 12:35 PM
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Northwest29 Northwest29 is offline
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Question Finial Finishing/sanding question

Greetings all,

I'm now in the process of finishing/sanding out all the scratches in the metal of a straight blade hunting knife and wondering if there is an easier method. Currently I start with 320 wet/dry, then work through grits 400, 600, 800, 1200 and 1500 to get a nice non-scratched finish. The problem is that I do all this by hand, yes it's tiring and boring, but at the moment it's the only process I know.

Is there a faster method that might not be so labor intensive that would give the same results? How do others accomplish the desired finish?

Any and all suggestions are MORE than welcome. TNX in advance!

Ron


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Old 07-08-2009, 01:24 PM
doublearrow doublearrow is offline
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I don't know that there is an easier method for a hand finish, but I used to have to start at 120 grit. Getting better on my grinder allowed me to start at 400 grit for hand sanding. On most knives I only go to a 600 grit finish followed up by hand rubbing with 600 diamond compound. Some guys take it up to various grits then hit the buffer. I've always done hand finishes or a machine 400 grit finish and have never tried a buffer.


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  #3  
Old 07-08-2009, 01:35 PM
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SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
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If you started with 320 that would make the job much harder unless you are very very good at grinding. I normally start with 220 but that is after much experience. I used to start at 120 then go to 220, 400, 800, 1200. If you are spending more than 10 to 15 minute at any one grit on a side then I would suggest that you did not finish the prior grit or grits properly.
Hope that helps.
Steve


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Old 07-08-2009, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVanderkolff
If you are spending more than 10 to 15 minute at any one grit on a side then I would suggest that you did not finish the prior grit or grits properly.
Hope that helps.
Steve
I think that depends somewhat on the size of the blade, hand-sanding a big wide bowie can test anyone's patience. The type and hardness of the steel can have a big effect on the time required, 5160 sands faster than o1, in my experience.

I used to hate the whole process of sanding, but over the years I've come to enjoy it. Good music and an imaginative mind really help... Its rare for me to take one over 600 grit, but sometimes I can't stop myself til I hit 2000 or so...


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  #5  
Old 07-08-2009, 03:25 PM
DaveL DaveL is offline
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Yeah, 600 grit is the norm and the look is just fantastic in my opinion.
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  #6  
Old 07-08-2009, 04:12 PM
WBE WBE is offline
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I totally agree with DaveL. JMHO, but if you feel the need to go beyond a 600 grit hand rubbed finish, then mirror buff it.
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  #7  
Old 07-08-2009, 04:31 PM
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Bear_Blade Bear_Blade is offline
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Have you considered doing most of the coarse grits, say down to 400 or even 600 on a lap wheel, then do the last grit's by hand? Saves a pile of "elbow grease."


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Old 07-08-2009, 06:09 PM
huntforlife huntforlife is offline
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I only hand sand/file all my blades. If this is the way you are doing it, then I would start below 320.

My method is: 60-600 dry, then 320-600 WD40 wetsand. Send off to HT. Get it back and start at 120-600 dry, then 320-400-600-1500 wetsand. Turns out nice, but it does take a long time. Its a labor of love. :-)


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Old 07-08-2009, 06:12 PM
huntforlife huntforlife is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHEzell
Good music and an imaginative mind really help...
SO true.


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  #10  
Old 07-09-2009, 05:34 AM
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What grit are you finishing before heat treat?
Are you going from draw filing to 400 grit? Using a grinder or any power tools?
What kind of grind? Knowing this stuff will help.
I hollow grind the blade to 80 grit then hit the flats on a disc sander with 220.
Heat treat. After heat treat I hit the flats again with 220 on the disc. Then
go 80,120,220,400,and 600 on the hollow . Then hand rub the flats from 220 ,320 and 400.
Then pollish on the buffer with green then pink scratchless. Finish with a coat of wax.


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  #11  
Old 07-09-2009, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huntforlife
I only hand sand/file all my blades. If this is the way you are doing it, then I would start below 320.

My method is: 60-600 dry, then 320-600 WD40 wetsand. Send off to HT. Get it back and start at 120-600 dry, then 320-400-600-1500 wetsand. Turns out nice, but it does take a long time. Its a labor of love. :-)

Is "HT" for Heat Tempering?

Ron


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Old 07-09-2009, 07:20 PM
doublearrow doublearrow is offline
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It means heat treat. Tempering is a step in the process, but as a whole it's called heat treat. Two words that get interchanged alot, but are actually different.

Also I've tried searching, but can't remember where it was located. There is a thread where someone talks about talking a black and decker palm sander and mounting it upside down in a vice. They then took the soft pad off and replaced it with micarta. From there they place sandpaper on the micarta and use the now stationary palm sander to help in the polishing process. If I'm not mistaken they take it up to a certian grit then start their hand sanding in one direction.


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  #13  
Old 07-09-2009, 07:58 PM
huntforlife huntforlife is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northwest29
Is "HT" for Heat Tempering?

Ron
Heat Treat in my situation. I send all mine down to Tx.


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  #14  
Old 07-10-2009, 05:08 AM
RandyScott RandyScott is offline
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Palm Sander

Quote:
Originally Posted by doublearrow
Also I've tried searching, but can't remember where it was located. There is a thread where someone talks about talking a black and decker palm sander and mounting it upside down in a vice. They then took the soft pad off and replaced it with micarta. From there they place sandpaper on the micarta and use the now stationary palm sander to help in the polishing process. If I'm not mistaken they take it up to a certian grit then start their hand sanding in one direction.
Try this link: http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showtopic=6679

And this link: http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=39682

And this link: http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=44512

Hope this helps.
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