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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#1
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Liner lock questions
I've been making fixed blade knives for a couple of years now, and I'm ready to make some folders now. I think I want to start with liner locks. I know titanium is used a lot for the liners, why is it so commonly used? What other steels would work good for the liners? I have my own kiln and do my own heat treating. I assume the liner has to be heat treated after the lock has been bent so it will stay bent and springy. Any advice / info would be greatly appreciated. I did a couple searches but didn't really get the answers I was looking for.
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#2
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The best reason for using titanium for liners is that you don't have to heat treat them. The titanium is already springy. You can use stainless steel instead but you will have to harden it and then draw it back to spring temper. Another reason I use it is to keep the folders light - titanium weighs less than stainless.
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#3
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using some steels as liners do not work becase they polish under use and would only slide off the back of the tang. I have a folder a friend made and it keeps unlocking because it will not grip. The titanium will stay tacky and not slip.
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#4
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Just checked out your site Tony. Good tutorial, nice work. Thanks for the input guys.
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#5
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What would be the best choice, after Titanium.... Would like to use something a little cheaper on the first few. There's a good chance I'll mess up the first one or two.
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#6
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I'd personally stick with titanium. If cost is the main issue watch for sales, some of the knife suppliers offer deals from time to time. Here are two that I use:
-Alpha Knife Supply - right now have pieces of 0.050" Ti for around $26 for enough to build a few folders from - American Metal Exchange - Often does a Ti starter pack that gives you alot of Ti to get started The very first folder that I put together was a kit knife from who knows where. I'm pretty sure that the liners were 410SS, I am not recommending you use that but if you want to make one just for the sake of making one (and not selling) then maybe try that. Your call but personally my vote is go stratight to what you will actually want to use and get some titanium. Sean __________________ Sean O'Hare Knifemaker's Guild - Voting Member Custom Knife Collectors Association Homepage: www.oharecustomknives.com Email: sean@oharecustomknives.com |
#7
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How hard is it to work with titanium? Hacksaw and file or will you need a milling machine?
Dave |
#8
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Thinner titanium such as 0.050" is not difficult to work with. I have always cut it with a metal cutting bandsaw but I would think you could cut it with a hacksaw without too much trouble. As to grinding it I have always used a 2x72 grinder so have not tried using files. Again though I think a person could do it.
Getting into thicker titanium would not be fun to cut with hand tools. Sean __________________ Sean O'Hare Knifemaker's Guild - Voting Member Custom Knife Collectors Association Homepage: www.oharecustomknives.com Email: sean@oharecustomknives.com |
#9
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Admiral steel has To .050"x 12" x 12" for $65
I use band saw, jewelers saw, and files.... You notice a significant resistance compares to say 416stainless, but it can be done without problems. |
#10
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Titanium it is then. Thanks again for the input guys....... Sean, I just checked out your knives, very nice work!
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#11
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Thanks, good luck with your project.
Sean __________________ Sean O'Hare Knifemaker's Guild - Voting Member Custom Knife Collectors Association Homepage: www.oharecustomknives.com Email: sean@oharecustomknives.com |
Tags |
advice, art, back, bee, blade, fixed, fixed blade, folder, harden, heat, heat treat, hunting knife, knife, knives, liner lock, lock, make, making, polish, stainless, stainless steel, steel, tang, temper, titanium |
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