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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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Old 02-23-2017, 05:36 PM
irishknifeworks irishknifeworks is offline
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Smyrna, Tn
Posts: 35

I got a new shipment of 01. HT the 1st blade from it. Straight as an arrow. It heat treated just like 01 is suppose to.


I'm still getting use to this new oven. Although the first blade is nice and straight, when I cleaned off the scale I have a WHOLE LOT of splotching/etch type/pitting. Murder to get off. That means I over heated it, right? I didn't take you guys' advice. I soaked at 1475 for 20 min instead of 10 min. Is that my problem?
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Old 02-23-2017, 11:19 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Now live in Las Cruces NM.
Posts: 1,272
What are you using to prevent scaling or decarb? Also how thick are your blades? 3/16 20 mins maybe, but I do 10 to 15 depending on thickness. 20 mins at 1475 is going to cause a lot of decarb and scale. Read what WBE said about ATP 641 for scale prevention. Also Brownell sells anti scale too.
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Old 02-24-2017, 05:40 AM
WBE WBE is offline
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 483
No, that does not mean you over heated, it means you had inadequate scale and decarb protection. I always soak for 20 minutes, and usually three at a time. The last blade will have been soaked for maybe 28 minutes sometimes. Scale and decarb are nil. ATS-641 is sold by Brownell's and some other sources. It is reasonably priced, and a container will do many blades. As mentioned, for the main heat for quench, I coat the blade with one coat, let dry over night. Then apply a second coat, dry with heat gun or hair dryer, then add a third coat along the cutting edge and dry with dryer. Then they go into the oven into slots in fire bricks edge up centered under the thermocouple and then go through my set program. The fire bricks, as well as holding the blades up closer to the thermocouple, also hold heat, making faster returns to temp, when the door is opened and closed.
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Old 02-24-2017, 11:21 AM
samuraistuart samuraistuart is offline
Steel Addict
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 163
ATP641 is great stuff. If you're doing any HT at all, steel should be protected in some manner. I only use one thin coat, dip the tip in the bucket, use a tooth brush to paint it backwards, thin even layer. Hair dryer for a minute or two....done. Stops decarb and scale dead in it's tracks, and it is supposed to work all the way up past 2000F.

It's not like the PCB, which I understand stays on. ATP will flake off even after an air cool, especially after a quench, so thermal needs to be reapplied every time.

The only issue I have had with the ATP, I believe it is the flux or something in there, I get little dots after the quench, on occasion. Sort of look like little bitty water spots on your car after a wash, and are hard to remove. This is not decarb at all. Perfect little round circles, about the size of a BB, maybe 3 or 4 per side on a knife. Comes and goes...sometimes I get the dots, sometimes not. Even had a friend of mine, fellow knife maker Matt Gregory, HT a round knife (wouldn't fit in my kiln door) for me, he used the the same odd little dots. O1 tool steel, too. I got it on some 115W8, but oddly, the other steels not so much.
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Old 02-24-2017, 03:32 PM
WBE WBE is offline
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 483
I sometimes get those circles/dots too. Don't know why, but sometimes they happen. I have used the APT on A-2 at 1775?. It works OK as long as you've got good coverage with no open spots. I would recommend a double coat for A-2, for sure.
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Old 02-27-2017, 11:34 AM
Trenton Entwistle's Avatar
Trenton Entwistle Trenton Entwistle is offline
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 402

This has been a thread that is full of great information. I haven't HT'd O-1 in a number of years, but have been thinking about getting some more.

Originally Posted by Ray Rogers View Post

If that doesn't get the job done, I have a straightening fixture that I clamp the blade into and then the whole fixture goes back into the oven for another temper. If needed, more torque is applied to the fixture and back in again, repeat until the warp is gone or the fixture is maxed out (in which case I'd toss the blade).
Ray, I'd be interested in seeing this fixture, if you could spare the time to post a picture.

(Am I the only one that laughed a little because fixture and picture rhyme?)


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Old 02-27-2017, 11:54 AM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,804
Not much to look at. Two steel bars about a foot long which is enough for most 4 - 6 " blades. The bars are mild steel 3/8" thick, thicker is better if you can get it. There is a 1/2" stainless bolt and nut through each end of the bars that holds them together. The bolts are long enough to allow more than an inch of space between the bars.

To use it, I put 3 1/2" steel rods between the bars to make the standard 3 point jig used for straightening, two on one side of the blade, one on the other, the blade and rods all sandwiched between the bars. Tighten the stainless bolts, bend the blade, cook the whole thing long enough for the metal to adjust to its new shape. Tighten bolts and repeat as needed ...


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