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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

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  #1  
Old 12-15-2005, 09:07 PM
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Kydex Adhesive?

I've read alot about molding Kydex sheaths. I have my Kydex, heat gun, etc. ready to make my first sheath.

No where have I read anything about useing an adhesive between two layers of Kydex along the edge/s that get rivited.

What adhesive, if any, is used? Do the edges melt together?

Yeah, they're novice questions.


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  #2  
Old 12-15-2005, 09:23 PM
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I have been making kydex sheaths and holsters for about two years now and no I never use any adhesive in mine. The rivets do the job. One of the key things to remember is to leave the sheath in the mold until it is plenty cool. This will keep the edges together and give you a nice outline on the item in the sheath. I have not seen it but I bet the DVD on Kydex sheath making that is on KnifeKits.com would be well worth the $$. I would proudly not have wasted as much Kydex when I first started making items.

Jimbo
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  #3  
Old 12-15-2005, 10:01 PM
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Steve, if you want to go the adhesive route, try some PVC pipe "adhesive". It's actually a nicely toxic solvent (tetrahydrofuran, THF) with PVC dissolved in it, that basically dissolves the target plastic a little bit and more welds it together than anything. (Same principle as model glue.) Kydex is a copolymer of acrylic and vinyl cholride, so it might work. Not a large investment if it doesn't.

That said, I've never seen a Kydex sheath "glued". Having some airholes to breathe will allow it to get rid of moisture.
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  #4  
Old 12-16-2005, 12:46 AM
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This is quoted directly from www.kydex.com:

The best joints can be obtained using a viscous solvent cement consisting of about 10% KYDEX? Sheet shavings or sawdust dissolved in a 50/50 mixture of tetrahydrofuran (THF) and methylethylketone (MEK). The KYDEX? Sheet shavings should be dissolved in the straight THF first, before adding the appropriate amount of MEK. Both of these solvents are available from lab supply companies such as Fisher Scientific (Web: http://www.fishersci.com/) Ashland Chemicals (Web: http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/), or other chemical distributors.

Without the KYDEX? Sheet shavings, a relatively fast-acting capillary adhesive can be made by using only the 50/50 THF and MEK mixture. THF works well at 100%,but it tends to flash off too quickly resulting in a poor joint. The addition of MEK slows down the evaporation rate and affords greater time to work with the joint.

Adhesives:

In addition to chemical solvents, good bonds (both KYDEX? Sheet to it self and KYDEX? Sheet to other materials) can be obtained from various commercially available adhesives. Some examples are:

Cyanoacrylate adhesives (e.g. ?Super Glue?), such as Henkel?s S1000 Power Series (contact Henkel in the US at 800-934-9401 or on the Web at http://www.henkel.com/), yield very high joint strength for bonding KYDEX? Sheet to itself or to other materials. They are especially suitable for smaller areas of application where a very fast cure is desired.

THF based adhesives by IPS work extremely well for KYDEX? Sheet to KYDEX? Sheet applications. Any of the following IPS Weld-On adhesives can be used: #4052, #4007, and #1007. For more information on these products, please contact IPS in the US at (800) 421-2677, or on the web at http://www.ipscorp.com/. Tangit manufactured by Henkel, and HAKU 2091 manufactured by Chemische Werke Kluthe GmbH. Chemische Werke Kluthe GmbH (Web at http://www.kluthe.de/kluthe/) are other acceptable products. These adhesives also work well for KYDEX? Sheet to PVC and KYDEX? Sheet to ABS applications.

Urethane based adhesives are available in easy-to-use two-part cartridge dispensers and result in good bonds. One such example is Ciba?s Uralane 5774 adhesive. Ciba can be reached in the US by calling (818) 247-6210, in Europe by calling 44.1223.832.121 or on the web at http://www.cibasc.com/

Acrylic based adhesives such as Devcon?s ?Plastic Welder ? or ?Plastic Welder II? can be used to form very strong bonds with KYDEX? Sheet. Both of the ?Welder? products are 2-part adhesives, which are available in cartridges. The Welders produce a strong bond, which cures in about 15 minutes; the adhesive is white in color. There is a ?Flex Welder?, which produces a somewhat flexible bond which cures in roughly a half an hour. Flex Welder is yellow in color although it does not give as good a bond as the Plastic Welder and Plastic Welder II. You may order the ?Welder? products from Devcon in the US by calling (508) 777-1100, in Europe by calling 44.1.933.675.299 or on the web at http://www.devcon.com

Adhesive Engineering & Supply offers ?adhesive 310B? in black which is comparable to Plastic Welder. They can be reached in the US by calling (800) 888-4583, or on the web at www.stick-it.com

Most hardware stores carry an adhesive for PVC pipe. This type of adhesive usually works well with KYDEX? Sheet.


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  #5  
Old 12-16-2005, 07:56 PM
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I was on a site that supplies Kydex (not a knife company) a while back . It mentioned that it can be welded/bonded together with the right chemicals and/or tool to become one piece. Seamless joint.So it is designed to be bonded together. If you can find a source other than knife suppliers you can save many times fold. I know someone that said he buys it by the 4x8 sheet and its very cheap as long as you dont tell them your buying it for guns/knives. I have never tested that theroy though.

Dave
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  #6  
Old 12-16-2005, 08:58 PM
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Ok I'll ask, what site?? Who was the supplier?

Jimbo
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  #7  
Old 12-16-2005, 10:13 PM
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Wow, now these are terrific, specific, everything you need to know replies. Thank you everyone.

I need to make a Kydex press and I'll also try some adhesive (if all the chemical mixing doesn't blow up).

I think Kydex will be fun.


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  #8  
Old 12-17-2005, 09:50 AM
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Well I saved the guys name that gave me a phone number on the OLD KF board.Now with the new one online I guess my PM are gone. I ll try to find him again. I dont recall the site I just surfed and surfed for kydex and found it. Didnt pay much attention to it since I didnt know I would be asked later

Dave
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  #9  
Old 02-11-2013, 03:00 PM
Crossbar Crossbar is offline
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Thermofoam

I am new to making Kydex knife sheaths. I noticed that Knifekits.com has four different types of foam for the press. Does anyone know which would be the best all around type? Think there is standard, Maxx, Mega and Xtreme.
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2013, 09:48 AM
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In my opinion, the best all-around type is Xtreme. It contours the best and lasts the longest. On the other hand, too much detail can cause an item to bind inside the sheath, such as exposed screw heads, surface bumps, etc. It is possible to mold a piece around your item so well that it won't come out!! In fact, there is a such thing as "too molded". Each foam has a different nature. We still have customers that swear by the standard foam. I guess it's a matter of what you're forming your material around as to what will work best.

Welcome to the forum!!!


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  #11  
Old 12-17-2013, 07:12 PM
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Exclamation

Recommendations by Kydex of things like MEK --wow ,That'll dissolve your liver fast .Take extreme care !!!
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2013, 08:23 PM
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Just a safety FYI if you use a full or half face respirator there are chemical cartridges that you can get to safely work with stuff like MEK. Check with Grainger and they will have any cartridge you could want. Make sure it will work with what you are using. Dont forget to wear gloves!
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  #13  
Old 12-17-2013, 10:06 PM
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Those adhesives are old school. These are the current standards for bonding KYDEX?, HOLSTEX? and BOLTARON?.





More here...
http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=41_433


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  #14  
Old 12-20-2013, 07:27 AM
FGYT FGYT is offline
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Glue is not needed for std applications but its us full to solve an issue when your forming outside the box

the front of this concept minimal sheath is glued as I didn't want to use Eyelets and make the kydex thicker




or this 2 piece DREDD 2012 film replica where the base plate is glued to the wrap

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  #15  
Old 07-03-2015, 01:58 AM
5kwkdw3 5kwkdw3 is offline
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Howdy all. Always a tinkerer and now tinkering with Kydex. I was very interested in this thread's OP and the answers given to it. After the chemistry and health and safety introduction I think I'm going to drop this class. I always bombed in chemistry anyway. That and rotting one's lungs out is never a good idea I figure. When I'm making a holster or sheath I always leave way too much material so at least I won't end up with too little. Because of this I'd guess that the gluing stage would be out of the question for me anyway. Sounded like the OP had wanted to make a Fobus wanna be holster type of thing where it ends up being a homogenous piece of plastic where no seam can be seen or felt? Was that a correct assumption of the OP?

What little experience I do have with Kydex I've realized a couple of things. Yes .060 is easier to heat and bend and such, but you'll be much happier with the finished product if you start out with .080. I've also combined a couple of after career "things to do" projects and I've drilled closer to the edge with much less "flat parts" sticking together. I guess that the reason for this much material is so that most folk can get their rivet punch in there and punch in a eyelet every 3/4 of an inch or whatnot? I put a few more holes in the plastic than most and every other one is only half a hole. This allows me and a weave I've modified from my Paracord days to stitch the sides together. I love this approach since you can always go back and modify the grip or retention of your holster/sheath. Also I start the weave from the top of a belt worn sheath so that when I've reached the bottom I have enough line left over to form leg tie downs. I know, old western styling with a plastic holster. Doesn't make any sense, but it does indeed work and for me is easier to get into place over the eyelets that I often only get half way through the material (that's even with the thin .060 stuff). That's why I looked to this thread to find about gluing, but as it is, I think I'd better stay with my paracord weave. Stick with something that works I guess. Smithy.
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