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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 09-24-2017, 03:57 AM
Rasmus Kristens Rasmus Kristens is offline
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Brass lines keep getting loose!

Hi

This is the 2nd time the brass liners are coming loose on my folder scales. I have no idea whats going on..

The liners are attached to epoxy handles. Both the brass and the epoxy scales are hollowed out a bit and rougher up a lot.. I clean with acetone.

Then I use 2 part 24 hour epoxy.

When i snd the handle after it dryes, it doesn't get hot at all. I mostly do hand sanding.

Do you have any idea what i can do different?

IS CA glue better for brass on epoxy?
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2017, 04:59 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Can you post pictures?? The way I do folders is well everything starts with titanium liners (some use steel) the handle material goes on top of that. I drill and thread holes into the liners so when I put the scales on top I just drill the holes through the handle material andput small 2x56 screws through them wich get threaded into the liner (the excess ground off) If you want to put brass between the liners and handle material same thing just drill holes through them too...if you put up pics it might help but I never use glue on folders....I took some pics a while ago kind of like a work in progress of a folder build send me a private message if you want me to send them to you.
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  #3  
Old 09-24-2017, 08:43 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Its near impossible to glue anything to brass. No scales on any knife should ever be attached using only glue no matter what metal was used for the frame. On your knife because you peened the pivot the scales should also be peened (because that looks more consistent). Scales should always be peened or attached with screws ....


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Old 09-24-2017, 08:54 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Yeh just re read that I read it wong wich is why I said put brass between the liner and handle material =.....if your using it as a liner just take the place of my titanium drill and tap holes in the brass and drill a clearance hole through the handle material and screw it togather forget the glue all togather
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  #5  
Old 09-24-2017, 11:20 AM
Rasmus Kristens Rasmus Kristens is offline
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all of it will be peened together finally.

I thugh it was enough to keep it togerther.

If you see the pictures, 3 pins will will be peened in the spacer in the back and then the pivot pin will be peened.
So to do it proper, I should first peen the liner and the scales together independend of the pins that go through both scales and spacer?



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  #6  
Old 09-24-2017, 02:11 PM
damon damon is offline
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ive been using this stuff. I refer to it as "god commands the to stay glue."
Spray with the activator, and let dry a bit.... then apply the adhesive. have everything ready to go as this stuff can set up FAST.
fully cures overnight, but is still strong enough to take to the grinder after 15-20 min.

https://gokimco.com/loctite-32430-sp...-adhesive.html

https://gokimco.com/loctite-22671-ac...49711A0C08FCD9
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  #7  
Old 09-24-2017, 06:42 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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QUOTE: So to do it proper, I should first peen the liner and the scales together independend of the pins that go through both scales and spacer?

Yes. for what you're building that's the way you should do it ....


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  #8  
Old 09-25-2017, 07:19 AM
Rasmus Kristens Rasmus Kristens is offline
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Thank you for all the great answers.
I will do it "properly" on my next build :-) I hope it will hold up anyway.
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  #9  
Old 09-25-2017, 09:18 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Yeh deffinitly peen the scales separately...I have never done any folder with pins like that although I have only done liner locks not friction folder but in either case I would think there is much less chance to mess something up and probilly eaiser to just drill and tap holes in the brass and screw down the scales with small screws like 2x56 that's just the way I would do it probilly not the best way
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  #10  
Old 09-26-2017, 01:33 AM
Rasmus Kristens Rasmus Kristens is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtec1 View Post
Yeh deffinitly peen the scales separately...I have never done any folder with pins like that although I have only done liner locks not friction folder but in either case I would think there is much less chance to mess something up and probilly eaiser to just drill and tap holes in the brass and screw down the scales with small screws like 2x56 that's just the way I would do it probilly not the best way
I think I will stick with the pins, i like the look of them better than screws :-)

I already shaped the scales, so I can't find a place for extra pins that I like on this build. I will try a lockback after this build, I will peen the liners and scales seperetly on that knife.

It's learning the hard way, and I really appreciate your guidance :-)

Thanks
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  #11  
Old 09-26-2017, 04:28 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Haha learning the hard way now that's something I can understand LOL....just so you know I know you said you want to do a lock back but if you change your mind on rays site he has a really good step by step tutorial for a liner lock...that is where I started and adapted things from there to make flippers.
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  #12  
Old 09-26-2017, 05:22 AM
Rasmus Kristens Rasmus Kristens is offline
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I read a lot about the liner locks, also Rays tutorial, but the titanium is so expensive and hard for me to get my hands on. I couldn't find any explanation on any other materies that would be suitable for the liners.

So I think the lockback or maybe a slipjoint will be the next project :-)
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  #13  
Old 09-26-2017, 08:37 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I think titanium is the best choice for liner locks but any steel can be used, phosphor bronze is also a possibility. I build my prototypes out of aluminum, including the lock, and even that works (for a while) ....


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brass, build, clean, drill, epoxy, folder, forge, glue, handle, handle material, handles, hot, knife, knives, material, metal, pins, pivot, post, sanding, scales, screws, small, steel, titanium


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