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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #16  
Old 10-29-2016, 08:29 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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You've got plenty of refractory already, I wouldn't bother with a second coat. The more mass you add the longer it takes to heat up ....


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  #17  
Old 10-29-2016, 09:22 AM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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I didn't put it on very thick. I put 2, 1 inch layers of kaowool and watered the refractory down to a pretty thin consistency and coated all of the wool. There are a couple small spots where wool is still barely visible though. I would like to atleast touch these up at some point. It definitely looks nicer than the other forge with plaster of Paris.
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  #18  
Old 10-29-2016, 09:41 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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All that is necessary is to thin the refractory to the consistency of ordinary paint and then just paint it on. You can get more elaborate with it when you have a reason to do so but a thin wash is all that's really needed ...


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Old 10-29-2016, 10:15 AM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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Ok, thanks again Ray!
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  #20  
Old 10-29-2016, 11:26 AM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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Sorry for my answer, I though we were back to solid refractory again. Yes, let it dry at least overnight and then slowly heat the forge up to drive out the remainder of the water.

Doug


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  #21  
Old 10-29-2016, 11:37 AM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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Thanks for the advice Doug. One last question for you guys. Is there any reason to cut a hole in the back of the forge other than to pass a blade through? Does it help at all with the forge heating up or airflow having a small hole in the back?
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  #22  
Old 10-29-2016, 12:36 PM
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I'd leave it closed, especially when using such small burners. You can always open it up later if it seems necessary...


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