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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 06-15-2016, 05:12 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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rust

hey guys quick question anyone have any methods or products that will get some light rust off a 1084 blade (with out bringing it back to the grinder)...lets say i was EXTREMELY stupid i made a leather sheath and when i wet the sheath to mold it to the bolster of the blade i left the blade in the sheath over night...yeh i know stupid i had a blade rust before and i used that navel jelly stuff but clouded up the finish so bad i had to go to grinder anyway....any ideas ? this blade is one of my favorites that i have done i really dont want to take any chances of messing it up if i can avoid it
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  #2  
Old 06-15-2016, 07:12 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Sorry, you probably already messed it up. Even if you get the rust off there will probably be pits.

If the rust is in the area that can be reground then get a fresh belt of the last grit you used and try that. Otherwise, it's hand work.

If you have access to a sand blaster you could blast the blade and give it an even light gray color while it removes the rust. Be sure to tape the guard and handle. Use Ren Wax on the blade after blasting...


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Old 06-15-2016, 08:02 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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...and wrap the knife in Saran or other plastic wrap before wet forming to a sheath.



Do you have one of those ScotchBrite belts? That may work and put on a satin finish but as Ray said, that may still leave pits.


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  #4  
Old 06-16-2016, 08:18 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Yeh thats what i though after reading the posts i decided to try the navel jelly anyway worst i take it to the grinder anyway....i left it on for about 3 mins and then again for about 7 or 8 and it etched the blade but very black looks like gun blueing or maybeygun blacking? much blacker than when i tried etching a blade in ferric that turned out gray...this stuff has phosphoric acid in it maybe that why its darker...the handle on the knife is orange and black carbon fiber so it actually looks pritty good it does still have a lil pitting if you look close i may take it to the grinder to get rid of that then MAYBE decide to use this stuff to turn it black again
Ray remember when i asked about that last piece of damascus (i still have the billet never made a blade yet) but remember i was saying i wasnt getting a real dark light contrast like i see in many pics....i wonder if phosphoric acid or even spreading this stuff on it will give it a darker contrast than the ferric i think i will try it ....if i dont like it i can always grind the etch and start again right how deep do you have to grind to get the etch off this piece of damascus doesnt have much extra thickness for what i wanna do with it
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:51 AM
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The stronger the etchant the more metal it eats away and the faster it works. That can be enough to erase a crisp grind line or deform a plunge cut. How much you have to grind to remove an etch depends on how deep the etch went, with FeCl it usually doesn't take much. Also, the more powerful etch will etch all the types of metal in the billet very quickly so there could be less contrast than with a slow etch where the most sensitive metal etches first and you can stop the etch before the other metals are significantly affected ...


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Old 06-16-2016, 09:10 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ohh i had it backwards as far as the slower the more contrast...maybe ill just dilute the ferric more for the damascus i thiink it was 3 to 1 maybe ill try 6 to 1
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:11 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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oh while i am thinking about it when a steel spec sheet says "positive pressure quench" what does that mean?
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:33 AM
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Positive pressure quench means air cooling under pressurized air, i.e., not still air. Usually they specify at least 2atm. I use this with S30V. After an interrupted oil quench I go immediately to pressurized air by placing the blade in a large tube and blasting air from my compressor through it until the blade is cool. Its the only way to get S30V to maximum hardness and toughness as far as I can tell ...


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Old 06-16-2016, 11:27 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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yeh i got a piece of cpm s35vn just a small overstock piece data says

Quench: Air or positive pressure quench (2 bar minimum) to
below 125?F (50?C), or salt or interrupted oil quench to about
1000?F (540?C), then air cool to below 125?F (50?C).

whats the 2 bar min mean? does it mean i could oil to 1000F then pull and let it sit in air? hmm how would you tell when its at 1000
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  #10  
Old 06-16-2016, 11:38 AM
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Try fine steel wool to remove the rust.
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  #11  
Old 06-16-2016, 12:01 PM
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The 2 bar minimum means two atmospheres of air pressure as I explained earlier, not still air. You can estimate the 1000 degrees by when the oil stops boiling (this only takes a few seconds in the oil). Pull the blade from the oil and the oil that is still on the blade should ignite because 1000F is more than enough to cause the thin film of oil to burn. Immediately go into a container where the blade is somewhat enclosed - I use a sheet of tin about a foot long and curled into a cylinder about 5" in diameter. The edges of the tin cylinder are left open so I can slide the air nozzle up and down the length of the blade if I need too. The tin cylinder is nailed to my work bench next to my oil tank. Out of the oil, into the cylinder, blast with air from my compressor until the steel is barely warm. Be careful not to concentrate the blast on one side of the blade to avoid warping. I usually set my compressor to deliver 80 psi which is well over the 2 bar minimum ...


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1084, back, belt, belts, billet, blade, bolster, damascus, grinder, guard, hand, handle, knife, leather, leather sheath, made, metal, mold, plastic, products, sand, satin finish, sheath, wax, wrap


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