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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 05-08-2013, 03:25 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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My latest off the bench

This is a scandi grind blade that I started last year before I got slammed with cluster headaches and I just pretty much the other day (I even tested it's sharpness on the side of my thumb-yep, it was sharp). The OAL is 6 3/4" with a blade 2 5/8" long 3/4" wide and 9/64" thick at the ricasso.
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I'm starting to pay a bit more attention to my handles and what I made was shaped sort of after one I saw in a book on puukos. The wood use was North American Osage Orange, which I'm starting to like better each time that I use it. This time I did not try to darken it with acid and heat. I also added a 1/8" mosaic pin. Still have a little work to do on the finish of the blade.

I do like the way that the handle sits in my hand. All comments are welcome.

Doug


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Last edited by Doug Lester; 05-08-2013 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:00 AM
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Naboyle Naboyle is offline
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Looks good Doug. I like that style.
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:32 AM
Ed Tipton Ed Tipton is offline
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Doug...The Pukko style is one of my personal faverites. I like the clean lines and styling of the knife, and I think the style lends itself to many different uses. I have made a couple of them, and it is my intention to make many more of them since it is a simple knife and a simple sheath, and I think it has wide appeal..
I do like the Osage Orange handle. I have a small amount of it on hand and it also figures into my plans.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:08 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Nice little working knife Doug. Lot of makers don't bother to shape their handles for comfort and function. Handles make all the difference in whether or not a knife actually gets used.
Real fan of osage and black locust, both work and finish a lot the same and neither need much if any finish. They age very well.


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Old 05-10-2013, 12:07 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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That handle only took two coats of boiled linseed oil and it took three days for the last coat to dry.

Doug


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Old 05-12-2013, 09:00 PM
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GHEzell GHEzell is offline
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That is a tricky type of handle construction you tried there... it looks wickedly sharp.


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Old 05-13-2013, 01:33 AM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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Actually, I didn't find it all that hard. I laid out a pattern on graph paper with he help of French curves then transferred it to the wood block. I then laid out the center lines on the wood lined up to the center of the sketch. After that I drilled scraped out the hole for the tang and drilled the pin hole. Then I cut the outline out on the band saw and sketched out the curve of the sides on the top of the block and sanded to those line. I then sanded flats around the handle making it sort of six sided longitudinally and then rounded off the flats The notch that the ricasso of the blade sits in was cut with the edge of a medium sized file. Basically, I just followed the instructions that I got from a book on making Scandinavian knives, Norwegian Knife Making-Ancient Techniques and Traditions by H?vard Bergland. It's kind of a strange book. You think that is mainly about making Scandinavian sheaths and he just tells you how to make knives so that you have something to stick in them. It also other tool making too, like the spoon chisels that you need to carve out wooden clogs.

One thing that I've noticed about the handle is that it just makes me want to pick it up with the pad of my thumb right over the ricasso.

Doug


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acid, blade, block, edge, file, handle, heat, how to, knife, knife making, knives, made, make, mosaic, scandi, sharp, sheath, sheaths, simple, tang, wood


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