The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
07-17-2014, 11:30 AM
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Steel Addict
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 105
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Turning the blade black
I have seen some knifes with a dark color on the blade. I would say its black but I am not certain from photos. Is this just gun blue put on the knife when it is close to being completed? Or are they actually coating the blade with a paint or stain?
thanks
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07-17-2014, 12:27 PM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,840
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It could be any of those things and a few other things too. Generally speaking, you can use ferric chloride to etch 1084 and get it near black (and maybe 1080 but not much else). If your blade is anything else and if you want it black you'll need to use some kind of surface coating. Some other steels can be etched to a nice dark grey but that's about all the color change you can get by etching. Exactly what you get when etching depends primarily upon the alloying elements in the steel but it will end up being some sort of grey shading unless you mix something into the etchant or coat the blade (paint, nitriding, etc)...
Last edited by Ray Rogers; 07-17-2014 at 12:37 PM.
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07-17-2014, 12:38 PM
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Steel Addict
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 105
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most of the steel i use is 1084 or 1095. I have gun blue already for some gun barrel repairs i made. I am assuming this would work to "color" the blade then if I am reading correctly.
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07-17-2014, 12:51 PM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,840
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Yes, cold blue will work. On the 1084 it could come close to black, on the 1095 probably not so close. As with most of what we do, some simple testing on scrap pieces is advisable before trying it on a real blade. That's the only way to really get definitive answers on this type of thing ...
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07-17-2014, 01:56 PM
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Steel Addict
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Dorena, Oregon
Posts: 191
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One option to Think about is mustard. I use it on my 5160, 01, and 1095 to get a med to dark gray.... But not black. It is nothing more than an acids etch.
Erik
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07-17-2014, 07:01 PM
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Steel Addict
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 105
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Wow guys great help thanks
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07-18-2014, 06:47 AM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 484
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You can take Laurel Mountain cold brown solution, or Wahkon Bay True Brown solution, both of which are intended for browning muzzleloader gun barrels, follow the directions and brown the blade. Once you get a nice even brown coating boil the blade. It will turn black. These solutions transform the surface steel to a tough oxide matte surface by controlled rusting, and are even somewhat rust resistant when finished. This finish is much tougher than any bluing process, and relatively easy.
Last edited by WBE; 07-18-2014 at 06:52 AM.
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07-18-2014, 11:22 AM
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Steel Addict
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 105
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Dumb question... were do I get these from. Did a quick google search and amazon search both came back with nothing.
Thanks
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07-18-2014, 11:58 AM
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Steel Addict
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 105
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yea at work... did not think of the firewalls
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07-18-2014, 12:17 PM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 484
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Most muzzleloader supply businesses sell either or both, but if you can get it local, you may be better off. You may get charged with a hazmat fee, or ground delivery only by mail order. I have found the Wahkon Bay brown to give a little smoother finish, but may take a day or so longer to get what you may want.
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Tags
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1084, 1095, 5160, back, blade, browning, cold, etch, etching, forge, gun, knife, made, mountain, paint, sell, simple, solutions, steel, supply, surface |
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